With a friendly recommendation from someone in the know, I had the pleasure of eating at a no-fuss, hole-in-the-wall restaurant that specializes in traditional Jeju cuisine near City Hall. Lucky for me, I was surprised to find it right inside the entrance of a market that I happen to pass by quite frequently, Bosung Market. It’s a traditional shopping area that sells practically everything you need in one location at bargain prices. Also in this area, you’ll find plenty of established restaurants with many years of experience. Jeju Tosok is one such place. Open for over seven years, they have been serving a variety of traditional dishes like momguk (pork and seaweed soup), bingtteok (buckwheat wraps), okdom gui (grilled tilefish), and a few other goodies. And if this weren’t good enough, they are a certified 착한가격엽소 restaurant, meaning they serve quality food at more than reasonable prices (check the menu below, super cheap!).
My girlfriend and I arrived on a Sunday afternoon and the place was basically empty, which to be honest got me a little worried since most of the places we visit tend to be crowded (or at the very least have one customer). Nevertheless, we went in with an open mind (never judge a book by its cover, right?) and fortunately left with a satisfied, full stomach. We ordered the aforementioned dombae gogi, okdom gui, and bingtteok—with the latter given to us as “service” (complimentary dish) by the owners—insisting that we had to eat the bingtteok together with the okdom gui. Rather than going into specifics with each dish, I have to say that there was something very special and comforting about the meal as a whole. The soft pieces of bingtteok went perfectly with the chewy, slightly crispy fried okdom while the tender pieces of dombae gogi paired well with cabbage leaves and its accompanying banchan dishes. All in all, it was a very satisfying meal that could only be described as homey, comforting, and something similar my mom would cook for me on a whim’s notice (which is a good thing, believe me).
Just a little love and praise for the halmoni/halaboji (grandma/grandpa) duo who run the restaurant. One of the first things you notice about this place is the modest and humble decor. It begins with a cross hanging on the wall above the menu and an engraved piece of lacquered wood reading “peace” in Korean. This modesty also applies to the owners. They are, by far, the most inviting and gracious owners who make you feel right at home in their restaurant. While taking photographs before and after the meal, she sensed my curiosity about the bingtteok-making process and happily obliged with a free cooking demonstration. I don’t get that kind of treatment at other places, that’s for sure. This is one of the reasons I’ll be coming back to try out their other items like momguk, kimchi jjigae, and samgyetang. If you haven’t tried any traditional dishes in Jeju, this might be a good place to start and I’m sure you’ll also fall in love with the owners.
“A man seldom thinks with more earnestness of anything than he does of his dinner.” ~ Samuel Johnson
Food: ★★★★ out of 5 stars
Service: ★★★★ out of 5 stars
Ambiance: ★★★½ out of 5 stars
Value: ★★★★★ out of 5 stars
Jeju Tosok제주 토속
Ido-1dong, Bosung Traditional Market (City Hall), Jeju City
Banchan (Side Dishes)Okdom Gui (Semi-dried n Fried Sea Bream or Tilefish)Bingtteok (Buckwheat Wraps)Dombae Gogi (Boiled Pork Belly on Wooden Cutting Board)Dombae Gogi (Boiled Pork Belly on Wooden Cutting Board)We got three of Jeju’s traditional dishes in one setting. Not bad a spread.Can you believe this fish was partially dried, then fried to look like this? Most dried fish tend to be, well, dry. This had some salty, good-kind-of-fishy taste and texture that I enjoyed with the bingtteok.Ingredients for the bingtteok filling include radish, scallions, onion, salt, sesame seeds and oil.
The MSG Conundrum. For most of my recipes, I have tried to use fresh, local ingredients and seasonings that are healthier than what you would find at most Korean grocery stores. For example, I’m using organic dwenjang (fermented soybean paste) provided by the local cooking school that my girlfriend and I volunteer at, and we also get a regular supply of homemade gochujang and gochugaru (red pepper paste n flakes, respectively) from MJ’s parents, who just happen to run their own Korean restaurant on the mainland. We’re definitely lucky to have access to such important ingredients and it saves us the headache from choosing one of the many brands out there. With that said, it brings me to an ingredient that is often overlooked/ridiculed/frowned upon in the culinary world: MSG. Not familiar with MSG? Click here. After doing a great deal of cooking this past year as well as eating out at many of the great restaurants here in Korea, I have come to realize that this lone ingredient makes all the difference turning a mediocre dish into an amazing one. Whether or not it’s good for you is debatable, but nevertheless here’s my take on the subject.
Growing up on a good amount of Chinese-American fast food in the States (especially in college), there has always been a caveat associated with the food and its heavy use of MSG. People were reportedly getting sick (can you say overeating?) and it basically got a bad wrap in the press despite no hard scientific evidence. It is the Asian version of American fast food — fast, cheap, greasy, addictive, and undeniably unhealthy. Why do I bring this up? Koreans love their MSG just as well. It wasn’t until a few trips down to my girlfriend’s home did I discover the deliciousness and my subsequent addiction to MSG. The simplest of soups and stews with some MSG goodness had me licking not only the bottom of my bowl but also the pot itself (sorry but it’s true). Ever since then—and after some lengthy research on the subject—I have just begun to use MSG products in my cooking after failing to reproduce some classic Korean dishes like you get at restaurants.
One notable dish that stands out is Soondubu Jjigae (Silken Tofu Stew). For me, it’s one of those dishes I hate ordering at restaurants because it’s so simple, yet for some reason or another I end up regretting it and finding myself stealing half a friend’s order. Well, after learning and hearing about things from here and there, one of the reasons that this dish is so popular isn’t because of the silken tofu and its other modest ingredients, it’s the savory and super delicious broth made better by the MSG. MSG enhances every ingredient in the dish and acts like regular table salt except with added superpowers. Thankfully, it did wonders for my recent Soondubu Jjjigae, too. For this particular recipe, I again used Jeju black pork as the main protein, two tubes of silken tofu, onions, and enoki mushrooms. However, the addition of dashida (instant beef stock with MSG) provided exactly what I was looking for—a deep, savory, and robust broth with the perfect combination of contrasting ingredients. Finally, I have no reason to order this dish at restaurants when I can make it just as good, if not better, in the comfort of my home.
Some people still may be worried about using MSG in their dishes and that’s perfectly fine. I’m not endorsing or promoting MSG in any shape, way, or form, but instead just trying to give some information for you to make your own informed choice. Personally, I use it sparingly in my dishes and believe that moderation is the key when eating, sleeping, drinking, and now cooking.
For more information on MSG released by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), read the following article:
I did not use this whole cut of pork (although I would have if I didn’t have a health-conscious partner) for this soondubu. However, I did buy an extra tube of silken tofu to prevent us from fighting over the creamy, soft, addicting tofu.Soondubu jjigae is great because there’s no specific ingredients (besides the tofu) you need for it to be a success. It has minimal ingredients, but I chose enoki mushrooms, onions, and green onions to complement the silken tofu.Base seasoning includes a good dose of gochujang and gochugaru (red pepper paste n flakes) plus garlic and a few other ingredients.I added some dashida (instant beef stock w MSG) for some more flavor and depth.Miwon brand MSG is one of the most widely used seasonings in Korean cooking and restaurants. This one called “mat-so-geum” (“tasting salt”) is a combination of salt and MSG, and is something I use in place of regular table salt. And just like salt, I use it in moderation.Stir-fry the pork until well browned. If it’s a lean cut of pork, make sure to add some cooking oil like olive or canola oil. If it’s a fatty cut like pork belly, extra oil will not be necessary.Add the seasonings and onions, stir fry another 10 minutes.Add some water and silken tofu to the mix. Try to keep tofu pieces intact, boil for another 5 minutes,Add remaining ingredients, let simmer for about 10 minutes, and garnish accordingly.
Optional: Most Korean soups and stews usually start off with a fish-based broth composed of myeolchui (dried anchovies), radish, and dashima (kelp). I've omitted this step since I used pork and the beef stock for the broth. You're welcome to add this step if necessary.
Prepare all the vegetables accordingly, set aside. Cut the pork into small pieces seasoning with salt and pepper.
In a pot, stir fry pork in a generous amount of olive oil until browned. Once cooked, add onions, chili peppers, and seasonings, stir fry another 5 minutes.
Add water to cover and run to a boil, 5 minutes. Sample the broth and adjust accordingly with seasoning.
Cut open the tubed tofu carefully and add into the pot without breaking into pieces. Add remaining ingredients, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes.
Once finished, crack in an egg yolk and garnish with available greens or remaining enoki mushrooms. Drizzle with sesame oil.
Enjoy with plain white rice.
3.2.2885
Note to readers: All recipes, or more specifically seasoning and spice measurements, contained in MYKOREANEATS are approximations. Growing up in an old-school Korean kitchen where everything was measured by hand, there was a strict but important rule called “son-maat” (손맛), literally meaning “taste from one’s hand.” My mom would swear by this and always cooked all the dishes using her raw cooking instincts to provide comfort food at its best. This concept of “son-maat” is pretty important in Korean cooking, so I’ve always wanted to keep that tradition alive even with the blog. Another aspect that I love about “son-maat” is the idea of putting one’s signature or stamp on a dish. What makes your food taste like yours, not like anyone else’s, is literally and figuratively the “taste of one’s hands.” As a side note, most Korean dishes like stews, stir fries, and banchan (side dishes) are cooked to taste, meaning that the addition of extra spices is, more often than not, added during the cooking process itself. In that sense, don’t fuss and worry about exact measurements, but rather focus on developing your own “son-maat.”
With an everlasting supply of kimchi (spicy fermented cabbage) in the fridge thanks to my girlfriend’s parents, we rarely go hungry throughout the day since kimchi can be incorporated into practically any dish imaginable (for better or for worse). So the other day, I decided to use up some of the ripened kimchi to make dubu kimchi. This is by far one of my favorite dishes to make because it’s easy, quick, healthy, and seriously addicting when made the right way. Also, this is a popular dish often eaten as anju, food paired with copious (?) amounts of maekju (beer), soju (Korea’s version of vodka), and makgeolli (fermented rice wine). I, too, love this dish as an anju but rarely order this at restaurants since it’s cheaper than cheap to make at home (the net cost of this dish is less than $2 bucks). Anyways, this is my simplified version using basic ingredients found at home. Although we went meatless for this recipe, the final result was still a perfect combination of textures from the soft, slightly crunchy kimchi and the always-so-soft tofu pieces. For meat-lovers, you can add any protein you like, but pork and kimchi are the most common teammates in Korean cooking. Last but not least, make sure to use old, pungent, fully-ripened, funky-smelling kimchi for this dish as it develops complex, deep flavors during the cooking stage.
“You’re thinking I’m one of those wise-ass California vegetarians who is going to tell you that eating a few strips of bacon is bad for your health. I’m not. I say its a free country and you should be able to kill yourself at any rate you choose, as long as your cold dead body is not blocking my driveway.” ~ Scott Adams
You can boil the entire block of tofu in water for a minutes (the easier method) but I prefer some texture to my tofu to contrast with the soft kimchi. Remove excess water from tofu by placing a bowl on top. After about 15 minutes, carefully cut the tofu into desired pieces.In a generous amount of olive oil, pan-fry the tofu until each side turns brown. Set aside on paper-lined tray.I am a big fan of garlic, so I fried a few whole pieces for this dish.I usually like some pork or some kind of protein in my kimchi but decided to go the healthier route. In the same pan, stir fry the kimchi with the juice and seasonings for about 15 minutes, or until soft and the color darkens.Healthy, vegetarian, and cheap-to-make dubu kimchi ready to eat at last!!Here’s another one I made back in Seoul where I tried to get fancy and failed. Note to self: don’t remove a hole in the tofu, not very much kimchi will fit.I rarely order dubu kimchi when eating out because it’s a waste of money. This was one of the exceptions in Seoul when some friends wanted to try it.
Vegetarian Dubu Kimchi 두부 김치 (Tofu w Sauteed Kimchi)
Optional: Boil the whole tofu block for a few minutes, remove and let rest a few minutes before cutting into smaller pieces.
For pan-fried tofu with a crisp exterior, first remove excess water by placing a bowl on top, 10 minutes. When most of the water is removed, slice into into desired pieces.
In a frying pan, add a generous amount of olive oil and set at medium heat. Pan-fry the tofu pieces until well-browned on both sides, approx. 4 minutes each. Remove to a dish lined with paper towels to remove excess oil.
Cut kimchi into manageable pieces and add them to the same frying pan with all remaining ingredients. Cook until the kimchi becomes soft and make sure to sample the sauce, adjust accordingly. If the kimchi becomes "dry" during this process, add more water or olive oil to the mixture. This step should take about 10~15 minutes at most.
Plate the kimchi on a serving platter along with fried tofu pieces. Enjoy!
3.2.2885
Note to readers: All recipes, or more specifically seasoning and spice measurements, contained in MYKOREANEATS are approximations. Growing up in an old-school Korean kitchen where everything was measured by hand, there was a strict but important rule called “son-maat” (손맛), literally meaning “taste from one’s hand.” My mom would swear by this and always cooked all the dishes using her raw cooking instincts to provide comfort food at its best. This concept of “son-maat” is pretty important in Korean cooking, so I’ve always wanted to keep that tradition alive even with the blog. Another aspect that I love about “son-maat” is the idea of putting one’s signature or stamp on a dish. What makes your food taste like yours, not like anyone else’s, is literally and figuratively the “taste of one’s hands.” As a side note, most Korean dishes like stews, stir fries, and banchan (side dishes) are cooked to taste, meaning that the addition of extra spices is, more often than not, added during the cooking process itself. In that sense, don’t fuss and worry about exact measurements, but rather focus on developing your own “son-maat.”
With my OCDish tendencies and somewhat anal criteria when introducing new restaurants for my weekly radio segment on Wonders of Jeju (if you’re interested about Jeju Island or Korea in general, check out the show), there are times I surprise myself and deviate from the norm. To be more specific, I generally like to do an extensive (and always exhausting) research on the restaurant being introduced. I need to know a little bit about the owners. I need to know their reasons behind the food they serve. I need to know the source of their ingredients. I need to know anything that will help me relate to the food. Anal right? Yes, I think so too. Anyways, this restaurant named Arang in Yeon-dong, Shin Jeju is the exception. I didn’t get to chat chit with the owners (too busy) and didn’t get much insight on the food (too busy eating). However, the food alone spoke volumes about the place and kind of had me thinking to myself: Do I need to be so anal with all the specifics before introducing a new place? The answer is no, at least this time
So without any research or friendly recommendations, I did not have to look very far because it’s near my GF’s new workplace. I had noticed it several times when taking her to work and there was something attractive about the place – very rustic, quaint, unrefined yet homey, and inviting. We visited in the evening and the place was bustling with hungry patrons. We ordered the Kimchi Dongtae Jeongol (Spicy Kimchi & Pollock Hot Pot) on our first visit and made a follow-up visit for their Mugeunji Heuk Dweji Seng Moksal (Ripened Kimchi w Fresh Black Pork Steak). First up, the spicy hot pot. This mini-cauldron looking dish was just perfect and instantly warmed us up from the wind-blistering cold weather. Big chunks of pollock combined with the soft kimchi and invigorating broth had both my girlfriend and I slurping throughout our entire meal (slurping is not frowned upon here). Personally, I tend to avoid ordering any type of kimchi-based soups and stews when eating out because they skimp out on any protein (i.e. meat) but they don’t here. If that weren’t good enough, the bachan (side dishes) are top-notch with notables including kimchi jeon (kimchi pancakes), japchae (sweet glass noodles), ganjang gejang (soy marinated crab), and you guessed it, geotjoli kimchi (freshly made kimchi). All at a ridiculous 14,000 won total (7,000 won person). Next up, the BBQ pork. Really, what more can I say about Jeju’s famed black pork? We know it’s super soft, tender, juicy, the best that Jeju has to offer. But if you haven’t tried it with mugeunji kimchi, I’m pretty sure you’ll fall in love with it all over again like me. Cooked on a slanted griddle, the pork is grilled on top where it slowly releases its fatty juices into the awaiting kimchi and sprouts. Once fulled cooked, there are so many flavors and textures for you to choose from which make it a foodie’s paradise. With any traditional Korean BBQ, everyone has their own way of eating their meat. Here’s ours…..my girlfriend religiously does the wrap method: pork on red leaf lettuce, ssamjang (bean sauce), kimchi, wrap, eat, repeat. As for myself: pork on pajori (green onion salad), ssamjang, grilled garlic, eat, drink, repeat. By now you probably get an idea of what to expect here and I’ve run out of things to say, so make sure to stop on by if you’re in the area.
It is a hard matter, my fellow citizens, to argue with the belly, since it has no ears. ~ Plutarch
Food: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars
Service: ★★★★ out of 5 stars
Ambiance: ★★★★ out of 5 stars
Value: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars
Arang 아랑
323-1 Yeon-dong, Jeju City
Phone: 064-745-2208
Hours of Operation: Open every day from 11am ~ 10pm
Mugeunji Heuk Dweji Seng Moksal (Ripened Kimchi w Fresh Black Pork Steak) @ 13,000 won per person (200 gram per serving)Mugeunji Heuk Dweji Seng Moksal (Ripened Kimchi w Fresh Black Pork Steak) @ 13,000 won per person (200 gram per serving)Mugeunji Heuk Dweji Seng Moksal (Ripened Kimchi w Fresh Black Pork Steak) @ 13,000 won per person (200 gram per serving)Dongtae (Pollock)Kimchi Dongtae Jeongol (Spicy Kimchi & Pollock Hot Pot) @ 7,000 won per person. Say what?!?Kimchi Dongtae Jeongol (Spicy Kimchi & Pollock Hot Pot) @ 7,000 won per person. Say what?!?Japchae (Sweet Glass Noodles w Vegetables)Banchan (Side Dishes)Ganjang Gejang (Soy Marinated Raw Crab)Kimchi Jeon (Pancake)
As many of you already know, I’ve gone a little crazy over Korean food the past year and my daily schedule of cooking, eating, photographing has yet to subside. I really thought I’d get “burned” out by eating Korean food on a daily basis but that hasn’t happened. Oddly enough, my passion/obsession has grown even stronger where I now find myself having dreams about it and thinking of different ways to prep and improve certain dishes (especially fried chicken). But there are times when I get a strong craving for some food from back home like artery-clogging hamburgers, indigestion-inducing pizza, animal-sized steak, and always terrific tacos (sorry, weird arrangement of adjectives I know). Thanks to a foodie friend who knows a thing or two about seriously good eats, I was treated to some Mexican goodness a few weeks ago and the lingering cilantro-bean-sour cream-spice flavors have not disappeared. I am not sure whether I should thank him or cut ties with him for temporarily steering me away from traditional Korean food but nevertheless it was the catalyst for this fusion recipe.
Korean tacos have been around for quite a while, originally starting in California by Korean-American Chef Roy Choi via his Kogi food truck. By combining the best ingredients and flavors from both Korean and Mexican cuisine, he was able to marry both cuisines into a worldwide phenomenon. Now there are countless copycat and spin-off variations stemming from this. If you happen to live in Seoul, there are two places I highly recommend for this type of delicious fusion fare: Vatos Urban Tacos and Coreanos Kitchen. As for my Kimchi Pork Tacos, I once again used my favorite ingredient—Jeju black pork—as the main protein along with some funky mugeunji kimchi (super ripe kimchi) to give the tacos some sourness and extra kick. Add that with the fresh veggies and two types of sauce, I can say with confidence that the recipe is good to go after several unsuccessful attempts. Of course, feel free to deviate a little by choosing ingredients that suit you, but I highly recommend you stick the route with the sauces. As I’ve learned from those failed attempts, there’s nothing worse than a bad sauce to go along with your meal.
“For the first time I know what it is to eat. I have gained four pounds. I get frantically hungry, and the food I eat gives me a lingering pleasure. I never ate before in this deep carnal way… I want to bite into life and to be torn by it.” ~ Anais Nin
A few of my prepped toppings/ingredients for the tacos. Can’t believe I forgot to chop some onions!Although flour tortillas are relatively easy to make from scratch, you’ll save a lot of time and mess by using pre-made tortillas like these.Slowly cook the tortilla wraps until each side browns. In most cases, air pockets will form signaling that they’re almost finished, set aside.Using pork of your choice (pork belly ideal), saute the pork in a generous amount of olive oil and a dash of salt n pepper until browned. Saute kimchi in a combination of kimchi liquid, olive oil, sesame oil, and sugar until soft, 10 minutes.You can saute them separately or together, and you can even add rice to the mix. Make sure to taste and adjust accordingly.Mixing and matching different condiments to make my own taco sauce.Build your taco with the pork/kimchi filling and available toppings. Drizzle with taco sauces and toasted sesame seeds. Enjoy!I messed up my first kimchi taco recipe back in Seoul but finally got them right in Jeju.My first taco attempt with homemade flour tortillas had only one thing missing: a good sauce. At least the pictures came out okay.Another batch from my first attempt except a burrito version.
Cut vegetables into bite-size pieces, set aside with corn and kidney beans. The beans are already pre-cooked but optional if you want to heat them up for texture.
Cut pork into thin slices as well as the kimchi. Cook both of them together with kimchi liquid, sugar, sesame oil, and dash of salt and pepper. Saute on medium heat for approx. 15 minutes, add more olive oil if the mixture becomes dry. Rice can also be added near the end for more filling.
Meanwhile, make the two different sauces using a squirt container. Although you can mix the sauce straight up, slightly heating on a sauce pan will meld the sauce ingredients together.
Heat the tortillas on a flat pan until slightly browned, no more than a minute for each side.
Build your taco with the pork/kimchi filling and available toppings. Drizzle with taco sauces and toasted sesame seeds. Enjoy!
“Holy shit, this is really, really good,” those were my initial thoughts when biting into this fusion concoction that I made recently. It’s not very often that I enjoy my own dishes and it is a rarity to find myself making a dish on consecutive days. I am not sure where the inspiration came from as I don’t use recipes from magazines, websites, or TV, but l think it might have presented itself in some form of my newest addiction—Instagram. I’ve recently rediscovered IG after getting my GF’s hand-me-down iPhone and I must, there’s a treasure trove of great dishes from obsessed-minded food lovers like myself. Just perusing (and drooling) over all the delicious Korean dishes has inspired me to whip up new dishes, so I guess that is where my inspiration came from. Thank you Instagram.
Country fried steak is a popular comfort food found in the southern regions of the States. Instead of using steak though, I replaced it with a cheap cut of Jeju Island pork. The cut is packaged and labeled for soups and stews (similar to shoulder or Boston butt?) but I found that it holds up quite well without drying up during the frying stage (even better than the tenderloin). With my version, the pork pieces are breaded similarly to that of donkaas/donkatsu minus the breadcrumbs but plus the mouth-watering gravy. Having had the original dish plenty of times growing up in Iowa (mostly in college at Denny’s), I couldn’t get enough of the fried steak-gravy-mashed potato-biscuit combination. However, the only thing I didn’t like about it was the post-meal bloating and upset stomach irritation (carb overload maybe?). Anyways, my version replaces the mash with rice, and I sauteed some good ol’ kimchi to provide some extra kick to the dish. All in all, everything worked amazingly together and the flavor/texture combination had my GF and I calling seconds on consecutive nights. Although we don’t have a lot of regular dishes (besides kimchi jjigae) on our weekly meal plan, this dish (or a variation of it) will be a permanent fixture in our home.
“Woman accepted cooking as a chore, man has made of it a recreation.” ~ Emily Post, 1872-1960
Using the cheapest cut of meat primarily used for stews and braises, I was able to thin these guys out, tenderize by pounding them down, and then patting with salt n pepper. If you want less trouble and more convenience, I recommend you use pork tenderloin or cutlet. If you have other available spices for a pre-rub, don’t hesitate to use them.Similar to breading pork cutlets for donkaas/donkatsu (minus the bread crumbs), fully coat the pork pieces in flour, then egg wash, and again flour. If you want to maximize flavor, add some spices to the flour.Using a generous amount of canola oil (sunflower and peanut oil are other healthy alternatives) in a fry pan, heat on medium-high setting and wait a few minutes until hot (if you add a little flour it should fizzle). Place the pork carefully into the pan.Cook each side about 5 minutes on each side or until crispy and well-browned. Repeat with remaining pork pieces.When finished frying all the pork pieces, there should be remaining brown bits n pieces including the oil. Dust in some regular flour and whisk until dissolved and browned, keep on low heat.Add milk to the pan and gradually whisk in the flour to thicken the gravy. Continue to whisk until it turns into a smooth, creamy consistency. Most importantly, add salt and pepper for some flavoring and taste test before removing from heat.Using ripe kimchi, cut into small pieces and saute until nice and soft, about 15 minutes. For flavoring, I added some extra kimchi liquid, plenty of sugar, and sesame oil.Personally, I love having a bed of rice as the foundation for most of my dishes and then topping it with cooked ingredients. That way, you can get a little of everything with each bite.
canola oil (use peanut or sunflower oil if available)
Instructions
If using a large cut of meat, cut into manageable size and thin out with a meat tenderizer or back end of a knife. Remove any large fatty pieces and connective tissues.
On the front and back of pork pieces, rub on some salt and pepper with other seasonings if available. Curry, cayenne, and garlic powder will work too.
Working one piece of meat at a time, coat in the flour mixture, beaten egg mixture, and again flour.
Add enough oil to cover half the meat in a pan or skillet at medium heat. Drop in a few sprinkles of flour to make sure it's hot enough. Cook meat until edges turn golden brown, no more than 5, 6 minutes per each side. Remove to a paper towel-lined plate and keep warm. Repeat until all meat is cooked.
After all meat is fried, sprinkle some flour evenly over the grease and keep at low heat. Using a whisk, mix flour with grease creating a brown paste-like consistency. Keep cooking until it reaches a deep golden brown color. Next whisk in the milk and cook to thicken until it becomes thick gravy. Be prepared to add more milk if it becomes overly thick. Be sure to taste to make sure gravy is sufficiently seasoned with salt and pepper.
In another pan, saute chopped kimchi with liquid, sugar, sesame oil, and minced garlic until soft and tender, 10 minutes.
Combine your pork steaks with gravy, kimchi, and rice. Enjoy!
One of the nice things about coming into the city every Wednesday for my radio segment is that I, more often than not, get a chance to find another new restaurant for the show and learn about some amazing new dishes in Jeju. In most cases (99.9% of the time), I like to do a little research or some asking around before venturing out but this past week I dared to be different. My girlfriend and I just rode into town on our scooter in true Dumb n Dumber fashion and stumbled upon this hidden gem while circling the city hall area.
Bomsol is a new, barely-2-month-old restaurant privately owned but working in cooperation with Shilla Hotel. The owner ajumma trained under professional chefs at the hotel for 6 months to receive proper food training and education in restaurant operations. This training is clearly evident in the food and the quality of the ingredients used here, which by the way is entirely supplied by the hotel. Her restaurant is the 8th establishment to be supported by Shilla Hotel as part of their “Let’s Make Jeju Delicious” initiative.
As for the food, they have three main dishes that satisfy a wide range of palates. I was fortunate to try them all. First up, bulnak bokkeum (spicy octopus and pork stir fry). This is a popular anju dish (food paired with alcoholic drinks) consisting of chunks of octopus and pork stir fried in a fiery chili sauce (gochujang based) with a heaping mound of shaved leeks. The very friendly ajumma owner let me sample this and it was love at first bite. The spice was tolerable (8 out of 10=sip of water after each bite) and the extra greens helped balance out the spicy, savory sauce. In my opinion, definitely a go-to dish for those who enjoy having a few drinks with some spicy food. Next up, kalnak haejangguk (octopus & noodles “hangover” soup). Made using dwenjang paste (fermented beans) and other “secret” sauces, the soup had a balance of unique flavors like dwenjang, pork, crab, and chili oil to its invigorating broth. But what really stood out was the main ingredient that you would be hard pressed to find at most other restaurants: hwanggae (Jeju crab). A bigger and brawnier version of its more popular cousin kkotgae (horse crab), there was actual crab meat to be enjoyed in the body and claws. A few pieces of pork, octopus, and hand cut noodles also make its way into this dish. Although aimed at office workers looking for their hangover cure before work (haejang=hangover), the owner says it’s a popular choice for those who love hearty soups. Lastly, bomsol jeongsik (house set meal). This is hands-down my favorite because it’s all about balance, variety, and health. Dombae gogi (boiled pork belly on wooden board), gaeran jjim (steamed eggs), godeungeo gui (grilled mackerel), and complimentary banchan (side dishes) highlight this set meal for a minimum 2-person order. When you have so many delicious dishes to choose from, it feels like a mini-buffet right at the table. The perfectly grilled fish was juicy and crunchy at the same time (plus no bones to pick apart!).The pork had no funky odors as is the case sometimes with traditional dombae gogi. The gaeran jjim was soft, creamy, and smooth like a baby’s bottom (sorry, I’m thinking of my nephew at the moment?!). The banchan were also top-notch and couldn’t be any more fresh and healthy.
Final lingering thoughts….the value for your money is by far the most impressive thing about this restaurant. Sourcing all their ingredients from Shilla Hotel, you are in fact getting hotel-quality food at a fraction of the cost. Although they’re fairly new to the neighborhood, I wouldn’t be surprised one bit if there was a line the next time I visit.
“The meal is not over when I’m full. The meal is over when I hate myself.” ~ Louis C.K.
Food: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars
Service: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars
Ambiance: ★★★★ out of 5 stars
Value: ★★★★★ out of 5 stars
Bomsol 봄솔
364-3 Ido-2dong, Jeju City
Phone: 064-723-8882
Hours of Operation: Open from 7am ~ 10pm, closed the 1st and 3rd Sundays of the month
A nice variety of banchan (side dishes) made daily to complement the mains.Aerial view of the Bomsol Jeongsik (House Set Meal) for 8,000 won. Note: there is a 2-person minimum order for this set meal.Godeungeo Gui (Oven-Grilled Mackerel)Gaeran Jjim (Steamed Eggs)Kalnak Haejangguk (Octopus & Noodles “Hangover” Soup)Kalnak Haejangguk (Octopus & Noodles “Hangover” Soup)Kalnak Haejangguk (Octopus & Noodles “Hangover” Soup)Bulnak Bokkeum (Spicy Octopus and Pork Stir Fry).
There’s a handful of dishes that my girlfriend and I regularly make during the week depending on what we have in the fridge. Obviously, we always have kimchi stocked and always ready, so kimchi jjigae (spicy kimchi stew) is a regular. Again, obviously, we have plenty of rice on hand, so we do a bokkeumbap (fried rice) variety at least once a week. Next, and not so obviously, we usually have tteok (rice cakes) available in the freezer, making it easy for us to make tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes) on short notice. Today we did a variation called rabokki (spicy rice cakes w ramen noodles). This variation of the more popular street food tteokbokki is ideal for a quick snack, mid-afternoon meal, or even a satisfying dinner when made at home. In cities across Korea, you can find these spicy rice cakes sold in food trucks and stalls usually with other goodies like soondae (blood sausage), odeng (fish cake), and twigim varieties (fried tempura-like food). The sweet n spicy sauce and the soft, chewy rice cakes are so addicting, and they taste even better because it’s super cheap to make and excellent for those with busier schedules. Although these types of food trucks and stalls are becoming harder to come by due to government regulation, I personally love these types of street food and have plenty of great foodie memories there.
“The discovery of a new dish does more for the happiness of the human race than the discovery of a star.” ~ Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin
Here are the basic ingredients for this recipe. The only thing missing is eomuk (fish cake), which is usually found in most tteokbokki dishes, but luckily the noodles made up for their absence. Soaking rice cakes is optional to rehydrate.Jumukbap (fist balls of rice) using leftover rice provides a nice balance to the spicy rice cakes.. A few shavings of seaweed, toasted sesame seeds, and sesame oil are all you need to make these balls of rice. Mix together well with spoon and then form by hand.For the sauce, use plenty of gochujang (red pepper paste), sugar, sesame oil, and garlic. I added a few spicy chunhyang chili peppers for some added heat.After sauteing the vegetables for a few minutes in a pot, add water and seasonings, boil 10 minutes. Use the same amount of water you would use to cook plain ramen noodles. Also, for hard-boiled eggs, boil for 10 minutes and remove.Add the ramen noodles and rice cakes, cook another 10 minutes or until noodles are soft and the broth becomes slightly thick. .Make sure to sample the sauce during the last few minutes and adjust accordingly.
On Jeju Island, there are quite a few restaurants specializing in healthy (aka “well-being) food options with the ocean being the main source of fresh ingredients. Of course, it’s important to eat healthy when there are so many unhealthy options out there these days, but finding a restaurant that serves both delicious and healthy options is hard to come by. So it was a nice surprise when my partner and I stumbled upon another great restaurant named Harbang Milmyun in Ora-dong that serves up healthy and tasty dishes at more than reasonable prices.
Harbang Milmyun serves up only five dishes using the superfood seaweed variety called tot (hijike) in all of their dishes minus the suyuk (boiled pork). And, surprisingly, they do it well. The bomal kalguksu (noodles w sea snails) includes a mixture of regular flour noodles and tot-infused noodles that was thick, hearty, and invigorating. Although I’m not a big fan of noodles and sea snails in general, they did a nice job balancing all the ingredients and textures to make each bite very interesting—imagine soft, slippery noodles; chewy, slightly rubbery bomal snails, and silky seaweed varieties. The bibim myun (sweet n spicy noodles w vegetables) was another winner that I personally loved. It had all the right flavors in the sauce (sweet, spicy, kind of tangy) and the vegetables were perfectly, thinly shaven to get that much-needed crunch with each bite. No doubt that this will be the perfect dish, along with their mul milmyun (spicy noodles in cold broth), in the warmer months just ahead. Lastly, the wang mandu—kind of resembling baby brains?—were indeed “king” of this meal. I’m usually anal about waiting until the entire meal is out to get a quick picture, but one taste test of these bad boys had us eating like food-depraved beggars. The mandu was generously filled with Jeju pork and vegetables and eggs for the perfect complement to the other dishes. All in all, we not only finished our meal feeling full as could be, but we were happy to finally enjoy a meal that was thoroughly healthy and handmade to perfection.
Just a side note, there are a few signs on the wall describing the prowess of their main ingredients tot and bomal, so it’s only fitting that I describe their impressive health benefits.Tot, resembling tree-like seaweed with elongated bulbs on its stem,is loaded with minerals, calcium, fiber, iron, and iodine. It is supposed to lower cholesterol, prevent osteoporosis, hypertension, obesity, diabetes, AND has a positive effect against STDs (sexual transmitted diseases). Bomal, resembling spiral-pyramid shaped sea snails, is full of protein, literally fat-free, and prevents osteoporosis, liver cirrhosis AND hangovers! I’m not really confident about their STD claims, but everything else sounds reasonable.
Food: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars
Service: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars
Ambiance: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars
Value: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars
Harbang Milmyun 하르방밀면
2451-5 Ora-1dong, Jeju City
Phone: 064-792-5000
Hours of Operation: 10am ~ 8pm, closed on national holidays
Bibim Myun (Sweet n Spicy Noodles w Vegetables)Bibim Myun (Sweet n Spicy Noodles w Vegetables)Bomal Kalguksu (Noodles w Sea Snails)Bomal Kalguksu (Noodles w Sea Snails)Bomal Kalguksu (Noodles w Sea Snails)Wang Mandu (King Sized Dumplings)Yes, the mandu were so good we just couldn’t wait .
I’m a huge fan of Korean-Chinese cuisine (known in Korean as joonghwa yori). I’m a huge fan that it’s relatively cheap (the delivery version at least), super fast (think minutes), and most importantly, always delicious and satisfying. In fact, my girlfriend and I just finished off a few dishes that were delivered fast and furiously for our dinner tonight. After a memorable, week-long trip to Seoul for the Lunar New Year’s holiday, neither of us were in the mood for any cooking or even eating out, so we did what most Koreans do when they’re too lazy for food: order in. We enjoyed our usual combination of jajangmyun (noodles w sweet black bean sauce), jjambbong (noodles in spicy broth), and tangsuyuk (sweet n sour pork) with extra leftovers to take care of our next meal. Ironically, this is the same set of dishes that we usually order at our regular sit-down restaurant in Hagwi, Aewol called Vivari Jjambbong.
Open since January 2013, Vivari (meaning haenyeo or women free divers in Jeju language) Jjambbong specialize in “upgraded” Korean-Chinese dishes with loads of seafood goodies in all their dishes. One of the impressive aspects is that all of their seafood is sourced directly from the island. The owner, once a professional fisherman and still fishes on his free time, prides himself on bringing natural ingredients and a healthier option to a cuisine that is largely known for being unhealthy. To be forthcoming and direct, the quality of the ingredients really shine in each of the dishes. We love the made-to-order concept, we love the open kitchen layout (which is unheard of for most K-C restaurants), and we love the endless varieties of our favorite dishes. Simply put, the atmosphere here had a very trustworthy, positive vibe to it making our dining experience much more enjoyable. The place exceeded my expectations both in taste and quality (individual review in pics below), and it has become a pleasant substitution for the greasier, unhealthier version that I’m accustomed to.
Vivari Jjambbong makes a number of pledges to its customers with scattered signs on the wall:
all dishes are made to order and with the freshest ingredients
restaurant closes when ingredients are all used up
banchan (side dishes) or other leftovers are not recycled (the bad kind of recycling) in any way
delivery and take-out options for all menu items
all seafood items sourced from the island (no sign for this one)
rosemary-infused water for customers (no sign for this one, either)
“To eat is a necessity, but to eat intelligently is an art.” ~ Francois de La Rochefoucauld
Food: ★★★★ out of 5 stars
Service: ★★★★ out of 5 stars
Ambiance: ★★★★ out of 5 stars
Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars
Vivari Jjambbong 비바리 짬뽕
138-1 Aewol-eup, Hagwi-1ri, Jeju City
Phone: 064-743-7090
Hours of Operation: Open from 11:30~3 / 5:30~8:50pm
Vivari Haemul Jjambbong: Tons and tons of seafood under the pile of shaved leeks. The spicy kick from the red chili peppers weren’t too spicy and overwhelming but definitely hot enough to waken the senses and get a little perspiring going on. At 8,000 won, this could be shared with another person depending one’s appetite.Vivari Haemul Jajangmyun: Tons and tons of seafood in your standard noodle variety and creamy, curry-like bean sauce. Definitely not as salty as your usual jajangmyun variety, but good nonetheless with a lot of depth in the sauce.Tangsuyuk @ 12,000 won: Definitely my favorite dish (because it’s fried?) out of all the dishes. The pieces were super tender from the use of pork sirloin and the coating had an interesting spongy-like texture. Most tangsuyuk pieces come out rather dry, crispy, and slightly leathery, but these pieces are delectable with each bite.There are two sizes for the tangsuyuk (small @ 12,000 won/large 16,000 won) and made for the perfect complementary dish with our mains.Another distinct part of the tangsuyuk was the absolutely terrific sauce made from citron (Korean yuja) which gave it an awesome citrus flavor. I wanted to eat the sauce with some rice but we were with guests at the time.
Just wanted to share one of my favorite, local chicken joints near Sangsu Station in Hongdae during my short visit to Seoul. I can’t say this is the best fried chicken joint in Seoul, but I can say with absolute certainty that this is hands down the best fried chicken joint for the price (8,000 won for regular). If the regular doesn’t work for you, they also have a nice selection of other recommended goodies like Soy Sauce Fried Chicken (9,000 won) and Hot Spicy Fried Chicken (8,000 won). Like most Korean fried chicken, it’s got a perfect egg-shell thin exterior that keeps the insides juicy and tender while the seasoning is even more perfect with an interesting peanut butter like aroma coming from each bite. Whenever I make a visit to Seoul, I always make sure to visit this place at least once as the customer service is always friendly and prompt, plus the place gives off a comfortable, chill vibe for anyone looking for a no-fuss, get your hands dirty type of meal. The sides and drinks are the usual suspects (as well as old school decor), but the place is pretty busy every night so expect a possible wait.
I can’t vouch for other locations except this main branch in Hongdae, but check the official website for a location near you.
Food: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars
Service: ★★★★ out of 5 stars
Ambiance: ★★★½ out of 5 stars
Value: ★★★★★ out of 5 stars
Ddobagi 또바기 치킨
328-10 Sangsu-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (서울 마포구 상수동 328-10)
One of the dishes I used to abhor as a child because of the pungent smell, it’s now one of my favorite soups: Cheonggukjang 청국장 (Fermented Soybean Soup aka Stinky Soup). My mom used to make this from scratch when I was really young and I would be amazed (and slightly terrified) that something so foreign and sticky (think spider web) could be eaten. Furthermore, the smell was something that could only be described as a combination of rotting garbage, stinky socks, and as some
For those curious about the difference between this soup and its closely related brother, Dwenjang Jjigae 된장찌개 (Fermented Soybean Paste Stew), they’re practically the same. The only difference is the beans used in Cheonggukjang are sometimes uncrushed and are fermented for a shorter period of time. As with most fermented beans, they are considered quite healthy and rich in fiber, therefore helping you lose weight and prevent constipation (perfect for me!). We usually make one of these two soup varieties because they’re easy to make and provide the perfect complement to any traditional Korean meal.
“I will marry you if you promise not to make me eat eggplant.” ~ Gabriel García Márquez
Here are the basic ingredients here for my Cheonggukjang. I usually like to add mushrooms and zucchini to the mix, but this combination worked out fine.
The Cheonggukjang paste can be strong in taste and smell, so use sparingly and adjust as you cook.
Making the traditional broth with anchovies and kelp is optional. However, I usually forego this step since the cheonggukjang paste provides plenty of the main flavor needed for this soup
Cut the tofu in cubed pieces, mince the garlic, and cut the onion into strips. Set aside until use.
Saute the ground pork, onion, and minced garlic in a frying pan until browned, 5 minutes.
Bring a pot with approximately 6 cups of water to a rapid boil. Add all the ingredients except for the green onions and cook on medium heat, roughly 10 minutes.
Taste and adjust accordingly with more paste depending upon preference.
Garnish with green onions and enjoy!
3.2.2885
Note to readers: All recipes, or more specifically seasoning and spice measurements, contained in MYKOREANEATS are approximations. Growing up in an old-school Korean kitchen where everything was measured by hand, there was a strict but important rule called “son-maat” (손맛), literally meaning “taste from one’s hand.” My mom would swear by this and always cooked all the dishes using her raw cooking instincts to provide comfort food at its best. This concept of “son-maat” is pretty important in Korean cooking, so I’ve always wanted to keep that tradition alive even with the blog. Another aspect that I love about “son-maat” is the idea of putting one’s signature or stamp on a dish. What makes your food taste like yours, not like anyone else’s, is literally and figuratively the “taste of one’s hands.” As a side note, most Korean dishes like stews, stir fries, and banchan (side dishes) are cooked to taste, meaning that the addition of extra spices is, more often than not, added during the cooking process itself. In that sense, don’t fuss and worry about exact measurements, but rather focus on developing your own “son-maat.”
To be straight honest with you, this is by far the most interesting restaurant that I have visited during my time on Jeju Island. There’s nothing fancy about the place (imagine an abandoned home in the countryside), the menu is not extensive (three items total), the atmosphere is drab (have you seen walls cry before?), and the service is questionable and slightly on the intimidating side. Okay, I’m being a little too honest as I try to remember bits and pieces of my visit here last weekend, but my experience here was unforgettable for two simple reasons: 1) the ajumma owner was the liveliest, most honest (slightly crass) person I have ever met, either making you feel uncomfortable at the in-your-face service or making you feel right at home with a motherly-like frankness, 2) the food is brought to you in a large steel bowl, and first thing out of the ajumma owner’s mouth, “You’re free to take as much as you can eat, but you have to finish your food or else.” I’m not sure about you, but for those who have an appetite like myself this is a pork lover’s dream to stuff your face without any limitation. And stuff our faces we did at only 6,000 won per person..
Their signature dish is Duruchigi (aka Dweji Gogi Duruchigi 돼지고기 두루치기), a sweet and spicy dish made with marinated Jeju black pork served with a heaping mound of veggies like bean sprouts, green onions, and thinly cut radish. After being told to take as much as we could eat, we were basically left to cook the meat ourselves on a hot iron griddle installed in front of our table. Some people might not enjoy cooking their own food at restaurants, but I prefer it being the avid home cook. I like my meat thoroughly cooked with the vegetables combining the awesome juices from the marinade. Once the meat was finished, it was an endless routine of wrapping the meat in some lettuce leaves and filling our bellies until content. By estimation, my girlfriend and I piled on roughly 600 grams of pork among the two of us, which means 6,000 won for a 300 gram serving of Jeju black pork (say what!?). Remembering what the ajumma told us, we painstakingly finished off every single piece of pork along with the banchan (side dishes) and a bowl of rice (1,000 won extra). We left feeling full and content without even making a scratch in our wallet.
Duruchigi is a traditional dish from the Gyeongsang provinces. Normally, it refers to a mixed dish of various meats, seafood, vegetables and seasonings. Although pork is commonly used these days, it originally used squid as the main protein. If you are familiar with Jeyuk Bokkeum 제육볶음 (Spicy Pork Stir Fry), this is Duruchigi’s close cousin with extra vegetables and served in a more BBQ style manner. There are many variations, with the main ingredients ranging from onions to spinach, squid to pork, depending on the region. Kimchi Dweji Gogi Duruchigi comes from North Gyeongsang Province. When you cook Duruchigi, the amount of juice in it is the key. The dish goes well with spirits, especially soju, Korea’s most popular distilled liquor.
“If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world.” ~ J.R.R. Tolkien
“Help yourself to as much meat as you want, but you have to finish what you take. If you don’t, I will kill you.” These are the exact words of the ajumma owner to a few young customers sitting next to us.Without any vegetables, this would be your standard Jeyuk Bokkeum (Spicy Stir Fried Pork).Duruchigi will always have a good amount of vegetables. This one included plenty of beansprouts, green onions, and seasoned radish.Almost ready to eat….Finally ready to eat….nom, nom, nom.
Open for over 7 years, Supsokae Dotori 숲속의 도토리 (translated “Acorns in the Forest”) is one of the better finds that I have come across lately, which is odd because it’s just a few minutes walk from my home in Oedo-dong. Honestly, my girlfriend and I thought we had exhausted all the great restaurants (맛집s) in our neighborhood so this was not only a pleasant surprise, but it got us thinking that we probably need to keep a lookout for other hidden gems in our area.
The restaurant itself is in an unassuming red brick building shared alongside other small businesses (we barely noticed it on our first passing). They are serving up some unique, delicious, and healthy dishes using dotori (acorns). From the usual Dotori Muk (Acorn Jelly) to the semi-unusual Dotori Jeon (Acorn Pancakes), this restaurant has, in my opinion, perfected their signature dishes all the while utilizing and highlighting this lesser-known ingredient. Another big plus is that most of the supporting ingredients (i.e. cabbage, lettuce, bean sprouts, etc.) are organically grown in the owner’s private farm just outside the city. Minus their lone BBQ dish, this is a vegetarian’s dream.
On this particular visit, we ordered their signature all-vegetarian A Course meal and it was quite an experience. Besides some banchan side dishes like kimchi and dotori varieties, they first dazzle you with a thin but very large plate of Dotori Jeon (Acorn Pancake) and a colorful (and again large) bowl of Saessak Jaengban Guksu 새싹쟁반국수 (Noodles & Vegetables Mixed in Sauce). Shiny on the outside and super soft when eaten, the jeon reminded me of crepes with an added nutty flavor. And when used as a wrap with the refreshing platter of noodles and vegetables, it’s a combination made in heaven. The mix of noodles and vegetables was similar to Bibim Guksu but on a larger scale with a sauce that only be described as apple sweet, slightly garlicky, tangy, and super tasty. After pigging out and finishing this combination within minutes, next up was the Dotori Deulkkae Sujebi (Acorn Dough Pasta Flakes in Perilla Seeds Broth). This was another winner of a dish with chewy acorn dough pieces (think liquorice sticks but softer) in a creamy, comforting, and hearty soup broth. Needless to say, we were very full after all this food, and it only cost us a very reasonable 12,000 won per person. For meat-lovers, there is a B Course which includes smoked BBQ pork for 19,000 won. Personally, I always need a little protein in my meal, so it looks like we’ll be making another visit here soon.
”Let food be thy medicine.” ~ Hippocrates
Food: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars
Service: ★★★★★ out of 5 stars
Ambiance: ★★★★ out of 5 stars
Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars
“Acorn in the Forest” (숲속의도토리)
430-9 Oedo-1dong, Jeju City (제주시 외도1동 430-9)
Phone: 064-742-5835
Hours of Operation: Open 365 days a year from 10am ~ 9pm
Banchan (Side Dishes) + Started Salad.Fresh salad in a sweet Korean vinaigrette dressing.Dotori Muk (Acorn Jelly). Soft, slippery, and impossible to pick up with chopsticks!Dried Dotorimuk.Dotori Jeon (Acorn Pancake)Saessak Jaengban Guksu (Noodles Mixed w Vegetables)Dotori Deulkkae Sujebi (Acorn Dough Pasta in Perilla Seed Broth)
Here’s another solid, small mom n pop restaurant that I got to visit during my short time in Seoul. They specialize in hearty Seolleungtang (Beef Bone Soup) and Someori Gukbap (“Cow’s Head Rice Soup”), the latter being a more adventurous eat for those unfamiliar with this type of soup. The terrific broth is lovingly made in a traditional iron pot called gamasot overnight resulting in a rich, milky-white soup with the accompanying banchan (fresh gutjeori kimchi and kkakdugi) being just as good. The husband and wife duo have been around for over 10 years and it’s a favorite among the locals on the quieter side of Hongdae near Sangsu Station (Line 6, Exit 4).
On this particular visit, I ordered the more “adventurous” dish while my girlfriend’s sister ordered the Seolleuntang (both @ 7,000 won each). Simply put, both perfectly hit the spot on a chilly afternoon in Seoul. Both soups had an equal amount of meat and somyeon (thin noodles), further balanced out with the addition of rice, shaved leeks, and self-seasoning salt n pepper. Needless to say, I finished off the entire bowl in record time despite sweating up a storm (served in a ttukbaeggi hot pot) and burning the roof of my mouth in the process (don’t you hate that?). For my dish, if you can get over the fact that you’re eating parts of a cow’s head (like I did), you’ll love this hearty, protein-n-nutrient rich soup filled with gelatinous fatty tongue, cartilage, cheek, and other indiscernible pieces. Give the place a try if you’re in the area!
“One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating.” ~Luciano Pavarotti
Someori Gukbap (“Cow’s Head Soup Rice”)Can’t tell you for sure what piece of the cow’s head this is. Cheek? Tongue? Fatty collagen?Here’s another fatty, gelatinous piece of goodness.Here’s the more simple and humble Seolleungtang (Beef Bone Soup w Brisket).No good beef broth soup is complete without shaved leeks and banchan.Fresh geotjeori kimchi and kkakdugi (cubed radish kimchi) that hit the spot with the hot soup.Salt and pepper ready for use. Use sparingly to savor the beefy broth.
There are very few restaurants I review without getting a friendly recommendation or doing a quick Internet search, so it was quite the surprise when my girlfriend and I stumbled upon yet another solid restaurant in our neighborhood (Oedo-dong, 15 minute drive west of Jeju City). They specialize in a handful of dishes including the likes of their signature Soondae Gukbap (“Blood Sausage Rice Soup”), Doma Soondae (Blood Sausage on Wooden Cutting Board), and Dwenjang Ttukbaegi (Soybean Paste Soup w Seafood). The one thing that differentiates this place from others is the rice. Instead of getting just plain rice with the main dish, the restaurant gives you a large bowl filled with a rice, an egg, and seaweed shavings for you to make your own “self-service” Bibimbab. The four ingredients/toppings are essentially popular banchan (side dish) varieties selected according to your preference. That’s right, a delicious and healthy bowl of Korea’s representative dish provided with your choice of soup served in a bubbling ceramic hot pot. I ordered the soybean paste soup that had a good amount of seafood in it, giving the broth a nice balance of flavors. The combination of the bibimbab and the soup really hit the spot in comparison to other places that only give you plain white rice. My girlfriend ordered the Soondae Gukbap and didn’t bother to talk to me until after finishing her meal (meaning it was that good). I am not a big fan of blood sausage, so I passed on this occasion. Lastly, and if things couldn’t get any better, the restaurant has some unbelievable prices. Most of the dishes run about 6 or 7,000 won, which made our lunch a very very reasonable 13,000 won (approx. $13). With three locations on Jeju Island, make a stop for some no-fuss, unpretentious food that will leave you feeling super satisfied.
“You don’t need a silver fork to eat good food.” ~ Paul Prudhomme
Skip the plain rice, here you get to make your bibimbab.Simple set up w the barest of banchan.From left to right, seasoned radish, chives, bracken fern, and beansprouts.As you can see, presentation was not a priority on this day so I just piled on the ingredients.Dwenjang ttukbaegi bubbling like a madman!Hello crayfish. It was nice to see a good amount of seafood in my soup.Soondae Gukbap (“Blood Sausage Soup Rice”)Soondae up close. Pig’s intestines stuffed with various ingredients like potato starch noodles and good ol blood.
Our set up for lunch @ only 13,000 won.The essential condiments for the self-serve bibimbab: sesame oil, gochujang, and crushed sesame seeds.
Sadly, I haven’t watched a lot of TV ever since moving to the island because I’m doing more important things like fishing for my food or swimming with Haenyeo (female free divers). But when I do have free time I’m usually watching a handful of travel documentaries and cooking shows. One cooking show that caught my attention and always seems to be running when I turn on the TV is 오늘 뭐먹지? (What Will We Eat Today?), featuring two celebrities pretending to cook and literally reading cue cards as they cook. To my delight, one episode featured a guest cook/owner from a popular restaurant right next to our “vacation” home in Hongdae that we never had a chance to visit because of the crazy lines. She taught me and the amateur hosts how to make her signature dish, Hamburg Steak 햄버그 스테이크, a Korean fusion dish that’s basically a cross between a steak and a burger.
While growing up in the States, I never had the Korean version of the original Salisbury steak, but I did live off the latter through microwave meals in college. The cheap, red Banquet variety and Swanson’s Hungry-Man Dinner come to mind. I still remember how good those tasted back in the days—soft and mushy beef patties smothered in gravy sauce with sides of creamy mashed potatoes and corn. There are other nostalgic food that come to mind but I’ll reserve those for later. Now back to the Korean version, I replaced the beef with Jeju ground pork (unfortunately no black pork available) and then combined it with thinly diced onions, green onions, breadcrumbs, garlic, and egg. After an overnight marinade, I cooked them up like a regular burger and added my own personal twist by using up available ingredients from the fridge. The final result, according to the girlfriend, was another winning dish that we considered restaurant worthy (hint, hint), that is with some minor tweaks. Also, it’s nice to have another go-to dish for one of our weekly meals and times when we have guests over.
“One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating.” ~ Luciano Pavarotti
Salisbury steak is a dish made from a blend of ground beef and other ingredients, which is shaped to resemble a steak, and is usually served with gravy or brown sauce. Hamburger steak is a similar product, but differs in ingredients.Salisbury steak was invented by an American physician, Dr. J.H. Salisbury (1823–1905), an early proponent of a low-carbohydrate diet for weight loss; the term “Salisbury steak” has been in use in the United States since 1897. The dish is popular in the United States, where it is traditionally served with gravy and mashed potatoes or noodles.
Hamburg (Hamburg steak) is a popular Salisbury steak dish in Japan. It is made from ground meat with finely chopped onion, egg, and breadcrumbs flavored with various spices, and made into a flat, circular shape about a centimeter thick and 10 to 15 cm in diameter. Many restaurants specialize in various styles of hamburger steak. Some variations include hanbāgu topped with cheese, hanbāgu with curry, and Italian hanbāgu (with tomato sauce rather than gravy).
Hamburger steak became popular during the 1960s as a more affordable way to serve otherwise costly meat. Magazines regularly printed the recipe during that decade, elevating it to a staple dish in Japanese culture. In Japan, the dish dates back to the Meiji period and is believed to have been first served in Yokohama, which was one of the first ports opened to foreigners. Since the 1980s, vacuum packed hamburgers are sold with sauce already added, and these are widely used in box lunches (bento). Frozen hamburgers are popular as well, often served in fast food style restaurants because they have a richer taste and firmer texture than vacuum-packed hamburger.
In Hawaii, hamburger steak is very similar to the Japanese hanbāgu. It consists of burger patty with brown gravy. It is usually served with macaroni salad and rice in a plate lunch. There is also a variety which includes an egg, which is called loco moco. The dish is also common in South Korea, where the recipe and name (햄버그 스테이크 / hamburg steak) were adopted from Japan.
Finely minced garlic, green onions, chili peppers, onions, egg, and ground pork for the patties.Mix in the breadcrumbs before marinating overnight (optional).Here are the ingredients for the “tomato gravy” sauce. Monterey Jack cheese, milk, finely minced garlic, diced onion, and tomatoes are needed for this delicious sauce.On medium heat, cook the patties with a small amount of butter or olive oil, roughly 4 minutes on each side.Not the prettiest looking patty, but tasty nonetheless.Add some finely minced garlic and halved cherry tomatoes to the pan and saute for a few minutes.Add remaining sauce ingredients and adjust the taste accordingly. Thicken lightly with flour or a small mixture of cornstarch and water. Tomato skins will eventually fall off, discarding is optional.
Optional step: Precook the onions and garlic in some olive oil until caramelized. This will add some depth and flavor to the patties.
Place the ground pork in a large bowl along with the first six ingredients on the list. Mix well with your hands and then form into round patties. Overnight marinating is optional.
In a frying pan or cast iron skillet, lightly coated with olive oil or butter and cook the patties on medium high heat, roughly 4 minutes on each side. Cook eggs accordingly after finishing the patties.
With the remaining bits from the meat, add in the minced garlic and halved cherry tomatoes, saute for a few minutes until browned. Scrape off meat pieces in the process.
Add remaining sauce ingredients and cook until it reduces, about 5 minutes. Tomato skins will peel off (discard if necessary). Add flour to thicken the sauce and adjust taste as needed.
I’ve been meaning to write a little something about this cute guksu noodle restaurant near my home and I guess that time is now. First off, this place isn’t a new hot spot or anything spectacular. They make simple, unpretentious food that’s perfect for those who need a quick fix (think of a fancy bunshik joint). They’ve been around 15 years specializing in guksu and other “fast food” type dishes, so they’re definitely doing something right to stay in business for that long.
Initially, I was not going to post a review of their restaurant because, as I said before, the food is quite simple (above average at best for some dishes). However, after passing by their near-empty restaurant the past few months, I couldn’t just do nothing since they have become victims of what has become a sad story these days in Hongdae: Tasty Road. For those unaware, Tasty Road is a food program featuring the latest hot spots in dining with two uppity, fake female hosts selling their souls by acting as though the food they’re tasting is the best thing in the world. It’s really ridiculous and absurd how they pretend to have a foodgasm each and every time, no matter it be a piece of bread, a spoonful of rice, a sip of mineral water, whatever. So to the point, right across the street from Yogi Guksu is an all-you-can-eat BBQ gopchang (intestine) restaurant called Kim Deuk Hoo Gopchanggo 김덕후의 곱창고. Ever since Tasty Road made a visit there, scores of people (mostly Hongdae kids) waiting in the longest lines imaginable have been sitting, standing, smoking there all day long. And every freaking day starting at 3pm until close. As a sad result, it’s been all down hill for Yogi Guksu and the lovely ajumma owner.
To add insult to injury, Tasty Road got it all wrong (or maybe duped?) when they said that the restaurant served all hanwoo Korean beef. An early morning run-in with their supplier said otherwise, as we found 호주산 (product of Australian) stamped on all the boxes. Obviously, my girlfriend (who previously worked for a major newspaper outlet) and I were furious and wanted to report them somewhere, anywhere. After some consideration, we let bygones be bygones and let fate runs its course.
As for Yogi, I am not sure how long they’ll be able to keep their operation going with their dwindling customers. All I know is that I’ll continue to stop by because their food is reasonably priced, well-prepared, and very comforting; I highly recommend the bibim naengmyun (spicy cold noodles), jumuk bab (“fist rice”), gueun mandu (thin pot stickers), and tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes). If you’re in the area, give the place a try, and while you’re at it, you can tell the kids who are waiting in line that the food they’re about to eat is not hanwoo.
I have been wanting to do this oi sobagi (cucumber kimchi) for a long time but my local grocery store didn’t have the Kirby cucumbers (small, knobby-looking ones) that I was looking for. So I decided to stop by the Asian grocers downtown, which has every exotic Asian fruit and vegetables, and fortunately found 10 of the guys I was looking for to do some pickling. Similar to making kimchi (but less time-consuming) making cucumber kimchi is pretty easy and the rewards are great. In warmer weather, eating these refreshing treats by themselves make for a great snack, but obviously go better with a traditional Korean meal, especially hot soups and stews. I got a little help from Mom with this one, so it doesn’t get any more traditional than this. She further goes onto to say that if pickling is done the right way, the cucumbers should still retain their crispness and bite even after a few weeks of refrigeration. This dish can be served fermented (being left out in room temperature for several days) or be eaten immediately afterwards depending on personal preference.
Mom’s more traditional oi sobagi (stuffed cucumber kimchi) front and center.
Prep time: 30 minutes Salting time: 1 hour Fermenting time: 1 day to 2 days
Ingredients:
10 Kirby cucumbers, roughly 3 to 4 inches in length (small, ugly knobby ones work best)
1 cup coarse sea salt
8 cups water
1 handful buchu (Asian chives)
1 small onion, julienned
1 small carrot, julienned
Sauce Mixture:
1 cup gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes)
2 tbsp fish sauce
2 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp saewujeot (salted shrimp)
4 garlic cloves, finely minced
1 tsp fresh ginger, finely minced
sesame seeds (garnish)
Directions:
Clean and scrub the cucumbers under cold water.
Cut off both ends of the cucumber. Cut in half and then slit an X lengthwise half-way down the cucumber.
Boil about 8 cups of water with 1 cup of coarse sea salt.
In a metal pot, pour the boiling salt water on the cucumbers. Let sit for about an hour, this will help soften the cucumbers but also retain its crispness.
Meanwhile, prepare the sauce ingredients by cutting radish into match-stick pieces, chives into half-inch pieces, and julienning onion and carrot. Mix all sauce ingredients together thoroughly.
Rinse the cucumbers in cold water and drain in colander. Let sit about 15 minutes to dry.
Massage the cucumbers with the sauce mixture inside and out.
Place cucumbers in an air-tight container. Keep at room temperature for a day or two, then refrigerate before eating.
Enjoy this side dish stand-alone or with regular meals as banchan (side dish).
Imagine a place where you can do your grocery shopping and get a decent bite to eat at the same time (and no, I’m not talking about a department store with a food court). Imagine a place where you can pick exactly what you want to eat and how you want to eat it (sorry, but not a buffet). Well on Jeju Island, there is such a place and it’s called Daebak Mart 대박마트, literally translated “Awesome Mart.” This is indeed an awesome mart because it houses their very own “self-service” restaurant right inside the grocery store. What is self-service, you ask? Simply put, you pick out any available protein (i.e. beef, pork, chicken, seafood) in the store’s butcher section, pay for it like you would at any regular grocery store, and then take it to the adjacent dining area for some good old fashioned BBQing. The only thing you pay for is the basic banchan (side dish) set up for a reasonable 3,000 won per person and any extras that float your boat (see pic below for details).
So far, my girlfriend and I have been here three times and it has gotten better with each subsequent visit. The notion of picking out your choice of protein is nice, but what’s nicer is that you’re saving money at the same time. The mart has their own in-house butcher shop, meaning costs are nearly on par with other stores in the neighborhood. If you want even bigger savings, keep a lookout for reduced prices later in the evening a few hours before closing. We got lucky on one occasion and scored a fatty package of delicious yangnyeom dweji bul kalbi 양념돼지불갈비 (marinated BBQ pork) for only 10,000 won (over 1 kg). Sale or no sale, the prices are very reasonable and the selection is vast, so make sure to stop by this unique restaurant-in-a-grocery-store dining establishment located in Oedo-dong. Oh, the place is super kid-friendly with a play area and mini-arcade game!
“The only time to eat diet food is while you’re waiting for the steak to cook.” ~ Julia Child
The selection is vast with pork, beef, chicken, and seafood on full display. Choose wisely and carefully and be on the lookout for special discounts.If meat doesn’t fancy you, there’s plenty of raw seafood varieties for you.
Discount spotted! Yangnyeom dweji bul kalbi 양념돼지불갈비 (marinated BBQ pork) for only 10,000 won (over 1 kg)Not sure why I picked 양지 (brisket), but at least it was high quality hanwoo Korean brisket.Total meat cost was about 20,000 won ($20) and more than enough for two people. We took the leftovers home.The banchan setup runs 3,000 won per adult and as usual they’re all refillable.According to Arirang radio, yummy to my tummy.Again yummy to my tummy.Here’s another setup when friends visited with their cute child. The restaurant has an arcade for kids and a play area as well making it ideal for families.We spoiled ourselves with some Kkot Deungsim (Rib-eye Steak) on this visit.….….For extras like soups, stews, and noodle dishes, they’re offered at a reduced rate about 4,000 won. We didn’t need for any soup because we’re all carnivores.For lunch specials, they a bulgogi set meal for 7,000 won, a pork bulgogi set meal for 5,000 won, and some regular soups and noodles dishes for about 5,000 won.Amusing piggy cartoons with some funny expressions on how to eat BBQ the right way.The place is usually busier than this, but we came just before closing time to have the whole place to ourselves.Daebak Mart 대박마트 “Awesome Mart” and our little blue scooter.
