MYKOREANEATS

I’m not a big fan of making banchan (side dishes) for my home meals, but I love all the banchan that are gloriously spread out in front of you when out and about at various Korean restaurants. Making them at home can be such a hassle, and even worse, washing all the little dishes afterwards is enough to stick to my rice + main meal combination. But in the hopes of eating healthier and lighter, I thought I’d add more banchan to my diet. I must admit this side dish, eomuk bokkeum, is not one of the healthier dishes in Korean cooking, but it is one of the tastiest and is so easy to make. Not long ago, I actually made this as a main dish while volunteering at a local food pantry and I couldn’t believe how good it tasted. The fish cakes had a lovely sweet, salty, and savory combination while the texture was soft and a little spongy, making it a perfect side with plain white rice and other side dishes. When I asked what was in the sauce, the ajummas (Korean housewives) honestly answered by telling me they added some MSG (as my friend puts it, “Mmmmm, So Good!) in addition to the basic ingredients of soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, and red peppers. My version excludes MSG (didn’t have on hand), but I can say with confidence that the taste was spot on and possibly even better. If you’re in need of a side dish, I highly recommend this one.

A little more about eomuk bokkeum: An excellent Korean side dish that can be made in a short amount of time. Basic ingredients include fish cakes, carrots, onions, and green onions, but other vegetables like paprika and potatoes work equally as well. This is a common side dish for lunch boxes, and it can keep for several weeks refrigerated so perfect for future meals. If you like spicy food, adding more gochugaru (red pepper flakes) is encouraged. Lastly, another common name for this dish is odeng bokkeum. Odeng is a borrowed word from the Japanese form oden; in Korean it is called eomuk.

“I know the human being and fish can co-exist peacefully.” ~ George W. Bush, 43rd President of the United States

Cut the fish cakes, carrots, and onions into strips, set aside.

Prepare the sauce in a mixing bowl. Adjust the taste to your liking.

Throw them all in a non-stick pan with some olive oil and saute away. About a few minutes in, add the sauce ingredients and continue sauteing.

When it’s all said and done (total time about 10 minutes), it should look slightly sticky with the fish cakes glazed by the sugar and syrup.

odaeng bokkeum — Eomuk bokkeum finally finished and ready to eat!!

I love eomuk bokkeum as a side dish with plain rice and some greens. Good stuff!

Eomuk Bokkeum 어묵 볶음 (Stir Fried Fish Cakes)

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Prep time

15 mins

Cook time

10 mins

Total time

25 mins

Author: MYKOREANEATS

Serves: 2

Ingredients

1 14 oz. package eomuk (fish cakes)
½ carrot, thinly sliced
1 small onion, thinly sliced
2, 3 tbsp soy sauce
2 garlic cloves, finely minced
1 tbsp brown sugar
1 tbsp mulyeot (corn syrup)
1 tbsp sesame oil
2 tbsp cooking wine (or Mirin)
1 sesame seeds (garnish)
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp gochugaru (red pepper flakes; optional)
dash of salt & pepper

Instructions

Cut the fish cakes into strips or according to personal preference. Cut carrots and onion into thin slices.
Heat olive oil in a non-stick pan. Fry the fish cakes for a few minutes and then add the onion and carrots. Cook no more than 5 minutes or until everything is cooked through.
In a mixing bowl, add all of the ingredients for the sauce and sample. It should taste sweet and salty; adjust according to preference.
Add the sauce to the fried fish cakes and vegetables.
Fry for a few more minutes until well coated with sauce.
Enjoy with rice as a banchan (side dish).

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[Updated as of March 26, 2015] They are offering a special set meal that includes all three tteok galbi varieties (pork, spicy pork, hanwoo beef) @ 29,000 won for 2 people. This includes the regular set up of approximately 8 appetizer items (not banchan) and a follow-up siksa 식사 consisting of rice, soup, and regular banchan (side dishes).

Here’s a great hanjeongshik (Korean set meal) restaurant called Buji Ggaengi (“Fire Poker”) that my girlfriend and I thoroughly enjoyed awhile back. Their specialty is handmade tteok galbi (beef patties) grilled over hardwood charcoals 참숯. For those unfamiliar with tteok galbi, they’re basically beef patties mixed with thinly chopped onions, carrots, garlic, and other seasonings. Although beef is the primary protein, many places will add some pork to add some extra fat to the mix. Interestingly, we had no idea this place existed in our neighborhood until taking a stroll on the outskirts of Hongdae near Sangsu Station. Lucky for us, we were treated to tons and tons of quality food at more than reasonable prices. We went for dinner and got one of each: pork tteok galbi set 한돈떡갈비정식 (14,000 won) and the spicy pork tteok kalbi 고추장떡갈비정식 (16,000 won). Both were nicely seasoned, juicy, and absolutely fitting with all the fresh side dishes that were brought out. Little did we know until later that this wasn’t even their signature dish….that goes to their hanwoo tteok galbi set (Korean beef patties) @ a respectable 22,000 won per person. Needless to say, we’ll definitely be back for that hanwoo version. Also, they have a lunch special for only 10,000 won. Image may be NSFW.
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“Not eating meat is a decision, eating meat is an instinct.” ~ Denis Leary

Food: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Buji Ggaengi (부지깽이)

157-1 Sangsu-dong, Mapo-gu (마포구 상수동 157-1)

Phone: 02-3143-3737

Hours: 11:30am ~ 10pm

Official Website: http://www.xn--vm0br8zpphflc.kr/\

Directions via Interactive map: http://me2.do/5dTDsFUL

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We had a very simple soup the other day called kongnamul guk (soybean sprout soup) and it couldn’t have tasted better with its mild and refreshing broth. We are accustomed to eating spicy jjigaes (soup/stew) that Korean food is known for, so it was a nice change of pace to get something light and easy on the palate. The broth is made from boiling myeolchi (dried anchovies) and kelp, providing an aromatic fishy smell (yes, fish can smell aromatic) that reminded me of the coastal fishing towns that I used to frequent in Korea. If you don’t have access to these ingredients, substituting them with minced garlic and salt will work just fine. And for those suffering from the occasional hangover, this soup is just for you. Koreans enjoy this as haejangguk (“hangover soup”), a pick-me-up tonic after a hard nights drinking, but it can be regularly found alongside the mains and banchan in many Korean homes and restaurants. Though we don’t eat soup on a regular basis at home, this soup is always a welcome addition…..especially after the tedious long cleaning of the stems and tips. Image may be NSFW.
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Servings: 4 people
Prep time: 25 minutes (includes cleaning sprouts)
Cook time: 10 minutes

Ingredients:

12 oz. kongnamul (soybean sprouts), or roughly 4 handfuls for each serving
10 myeolchi (dried anchovies)
1 piece dashima (dried kelp)
2 green onions, chopped
1 block firm tofu, cubed
2 garlic cloves, finely diced
salt to taste
1 tbsp gochugaru (red pepper flakes; optional)
8 cups water

Directions:

1. Submerge the soybean sprouts in a large bowl with water, floating skins and other small debris should be picked off and discarded. Although optional (but recommended), remove dirty end tips by hand until desired amount is reached. Some cook the sprouts without removing the tips, but I like to follow the common adage: if it looks dirty, it usually is dirty.

2. In a pot, bring 8 cups of water with the dried anchovies and kelp to a boil, uncovered. Boil for about 10 minutes; remove and discard ingredients from the broth.

3. Add the sprouts and minced garlic, cover, and bring to a boil for about 10 minutes. Keep lid covered during the entire duration of cooking. Add cubed tofu pieces, boil for another minute.

4. Sample the broth and adjust with salt. Garnish with chopped scallion and serve hot.

*Be careful when purchasing these soybean sprouts (kongnamul), as they are often confused with mung bean sprouts (sukju). The soybean sprouts have larger heads compared to their counterparts, which are much smaller and sometimes do not have heads on them. They are available at most Korean grocery stores or your local Asian market.

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Spring has finally sprung with warm temperatures being the norm rather than the exception. And with that, my girlfriend and I once again get to explore every nook and cranny of the island on our scooter without freezing to death. This past weekend, we ventured around Aewol (near Gwakji Beach) and immediately spotted a unique restaurant on the main road. Upon close inspection, half the walls and windows of the small eatery were covered with Post-it note messages from satisfied customers and foodie fanatics from the mainland. Along with that, there were a few celebrity signage next to the menu board affirming that the place was indeed a matjib 맛집 (great restaurant). Personally, I feel a slight disdain for restaurants that splatter promotional signatures all over their walls and prefer to see actual food pics. However, once we got talking to the very personable owner, we knew the food would be great because, from previous experiences, we have yet to have sub-par food from genuinely nice owners/chefs/cooks.

We arrived there a little past 11 o’clock in the morning with no sign of life inside the restaurant. However, the front door was unlocked, so I made myself at home by entering and calling for some service. The place was obviously closed since their “open for business” light was off, but we were pretty hungry from running around in the morning and I was personally feeling antsy from lack of food. Luckily the owner ajeoshi stumbled out from the back room hair disheveled and hangover written all over him. Having pity on us for some reason despite not opening until noon, he graciously took our order as we played with his adorable white dog, Sadie.

As with most of my favorite restaurants, there’s only a handful of dishes here at Gwakji Guksi 곽지국시. The main ones are Jeju’s own gogi guksu (pork noodle soup), myeolchi guksu (anchovy noodle soup), bibim guksu (sweet n spicy noodles), plus a few seasonal items for summer. We went with the gogi guksu, bibim guksu, and a three piece order of jjin mandu (steamed dumplings). Talk about holy trinity of foods, this was one of the better meals (and totally unexpected) that I had had in a long time. The combination of the three items were simply perfect: The goki guksu w its meaty, milky broth provided a very soothing, invigorating component; the bibim guksu added a lovely sweet, sour, and vinegary contrast; and lastly, the mandu were soft and meaty. Even the side dishes, although simple, worked in perfect harmony with the mains. Although the restaurant is farther out than what we’re used to traveling (30 minute drive west from Jeju City), we’ll definitely be back in summer for their seasonal dishes and to visit our new furry friend, Sadie. Image may be NSFW.
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He who distinguishes the true savor of his food can never be a glutton; he who does not cannot be otherwise. ~ Henry David Thoreau

Food: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Gwakji Guksi (곽지국시)

1667-15 Gwakji-ri, Aewol-eup, Jeju City (제주시 애월읍 곽지리 1667-15)

Phone: 064-799-5070

Hours: 12:00pm ~ 9:00pm

Directions via Interactive map: http://me2.do/GNraXElq

pictures don’t lie….look at that filling.

jjin mandu (steamed dumplings) @ 3,000 won for 3 pieces.

gogi guksu (pork noodle soup) @ 6,000 won.

bibim guksu (sweet n spicy noodles) @ 5,000 won.

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Here’s another solid restaurant that I got to visit a few weeks ago during my trip to Seoul. It has over 30 years of experience but has recently gotten more love with its appearance on a popular food program promoting old-school restaurants in and around Seoul. Their signature dish is traditional Kimchi Jjigae (Spicy Kimchi Stew), one of my personal favorites that I make at least once a week at home. There are a handful of other regular dishes, but my girlfriend and I went with their signature plus a meaty dish of Jeyuk Bokkeum (Spicy Stir Fried Pork). Maybe the place was hyped a little too much or I’ve had one too many great kimchi jjiggaes (probably the latter), but both dishes were just okay and fell way short of I-gotta-come-back-for-this-tomorrow type of feeling. This is not saying they were bad in any way, but as someone who’s cooked his fair share of both dishes, they could have been a little better than the stuff I make at home. I didn’t leave totally disappointed though. There was one special aspect of the kimchi jjigae that really caught my attention: their golf ball sized pork chunks which were unbelievably tender and a pork lover’s dream. Both of the respective dishes were minimalist adaptations of what I’m used to these days, but it’s somewhat satisfying knowing that these types of places can exist in a super competitive and high-rent area such as Cheongdahm-dong. Btw, nearby tables showed a lot of love for the BBQ in the form of Samgyeopsal (Pork Belly) and Hangjeongsal (Pork Neck), the latter being one of my favorite yet lesser known cuts of pork. Image may be NSFW.
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“My favorite time of day is to get up and eat leftovers from dinner, especially spicy food.” ~David Byrne

Menu Breakdown:

Kimchi Jjigae (Spicy Kimchi Stew 7,000 won

Jeyuk Bokkeum (Spicy Stir Fried Pork) 8,000 won

Dwenjang Jjigae (Soybean Paste Stew) @ 6,000 won

Saeng Samgyeopsal (Non-Frozen BBQ Pork Belly) @ 14,000 won

Mok Hangjeongsal (BBQ Pork Neck Meat) @ 15,000 won

Moksal Kimchi Bokkeum (Stir Fried Pork n Kimchi) @ 15,000 won

Food: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★½ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★½ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Hyundae Jungyuk Sikdang (현대정육식당)

1-25 Cheongdahm-dong, Kangnam-gu, Seoul

Phone: 02-540-7205

Hours: Open 24 hours daily

Directions via Naver map: http://me2.do/5TZdJap4

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Have you ever tried real Chuncheon-Style Dak Galbi (Spicy Grilled Chicken)? Or better yet, have you ever tried the more popular version of Dak Galbi (Spicy Chicken w Vegetables)? If you haven’t, I found a place where you can experience both of these delicious dishes. Open for only three months, Myungpoom Chunha in Nohyeong-dong (Shin Jeju) specializes in original dak galbi straight from Chuncheon. The owners are native Chuncheon residents and have brought their time-tested recipes over to Jeju Island. Here’s just a small sample how they’re representing Chuncheon with their delicious dak galbi:

The owners are native Chuncheon residents who honed their craft for 3 years before making the big move to Jeju Island.
All chickens are sourced from Chuncheon with the owner’s mother-in-law prepping (손질) all the chicken before being sent over from the mainland.
The chicken are “fresh” meaning they do not use frozen chicken.
All sauces are made in-house with new sauces being continuously improved and developed (개발).
All ingredients and inventory are domestic products.

Having had this dish personally many times, I suggested to my group of friends to order the original Chuncheon-Style Sutbul Dak Galbi (Charcoal Grilled Chicken) because they had never eaten the original. The original Chuncheon dak galbi used to be different (started in the 60s) where restaurants cooked chicken on thin wire grills over charcoal briquettes; they do the exact same thing here plus add in their own flavors: spicy, mild, and salted (we got order of each). Nowadays though, we refer to Chuncheon dak galbi as spicy chicken stir fried with other vegetables on a large round metal griddle called bulpan. To our satisfaction, the charcoal version was to everyone’s liking. It took slightly longer to grill (despite help from the owner/waitress), but in the end we really enjoyed the tender, moist pieces of chicken that were flavored just right. All the banchan (side dishes) and various dipping sauces also complimented the grilled chicken very nicely. Needless to say, my friends and I thoroughly enjoyed our meal and have planned to try out the modernized version in the weeks ahead. Image may be NSFW.
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If you’re unfamiliar with the more popular version of dak galbi, here’s a quick summary of this savory dish. Dak galbi is prepared by marinating pieces of chicken in a gochujang-based sauce (spicy red pepper paste) with other seasonings overnight. Common ingredients include a mix of cabbage, green onions, perilla leaves, sweet potatoes, and rice cakes, then they’re added to a large cast iron griddle. The mixture is then typically stir-fried at the table right in front of you and share among your friends. Dak galbi can be enjoyed on its own or wrapped in lettuce leaves for a fresh, crunchy taste. After most of the dak galbi has been eaten, rice and seasonings are then stir-fried with the remaining sauce in the pan. You’ll find many dak galbi restaurants concentrated near university campuses as it’s a popular dish among university students who are on a tight budget but a good source of sustenance.

“Is this chicken, what I have, or is this fish? I know it’s tuna, but it says ‘Chicken of the Sea.” ~ Jessica Simpson

Main Menu:

Sutbul Dak Galbi 숯불 닭갈비 (BBQ Chicken over Charcoals) 11,000 won

Chulpahn Dak Galbi 철판 닭갈비 (Spicy Chicken w Vegetables on Cast Iron Griddle) 11,000 won

Yangnyeom Dweji Galbi 양념 돼지갈비 (Marinated Sweet Pork Ribs) 13,000 won

Bibim Makguksu 비빔 막국수 (Buckwheat Noodles Mix) 7,000 won

Dongchimi Makguksu 동치미 막국수 (Buckwheat Noodles in Cold Radish Kimchi Broth) 7,000

Sunji Haejangguk 선지 해장국 (Cow Blood Hangover Soup) 5,000 won

Yachae Bibimbap 야채 비빔밥 (Rice n Vegetable Medley w Hot Sauce) 5,000 won

Kongnamul Haejangguk 콩나물 해장국 (Soybean Sprout Hangover Soup) 5,000 won

Food ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Myungpoom Chunha (명품천하)

710-3 Nohyeong-dong, Jeju City (제주시 노형동 710-3)

Phone: 064-745-9537

Hours: Open 10:00am ~ 12 midnight daily

Directions via Naver map: http://me2.do/xCaOKT4n

We ordered the spicy, mild, and salted version of the chicken “ribs.”

A nice variety and range of banchan side dishes.

As with all Korean BBQ, plenty of banchan and lettuce leaf varieties to choose from.

The original Chuncheon-style dak galbi cooked over charcoals.

Gaeran Jjim (steamed eggs) that were creamier than you could ever imagine.

They place some sweet potatoes in the fire pit to cook during your meal. Once finished, they serve as a nice post-meal dessert. Super sweet n yummy!

BBQ Chicken over Charcoals 숯불 닭갈비 11,000 won / Spicy Chicken w Vegetables on Cast Iron Griddle 철판 닭갈비 11,000 won / Marinated Sweet Pork Ribs 양념 돼지갈비13,000 won / Buckwheat Noodles in Chilled Broth 비빔 막국수 7,000 won / Buckwheat Noodles with Vegetables Cold Radish Kimchi Broth 동치미 막국수 7,000 / Cow Blood Hangover Soup 선지 해장국 5,000 / Rice n Vegetable Medley w Hot Sauce 야채 비빔밥 5,000 / Soybean Sprout Hangover Soup 콩나물 해장국 5,000

All ingredients and produce are Korean with the chicken coming straight from Chuncheon.

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If I were ever to make a top 10 fried chicken joints in Seoul, this place would rank high up on the list for several reasons. First off, the place is large yet bare-bones with an unmatched old-school vibe that I personally love. In my experience, places that focus less on the superficial stuff (i.e. fancy interior/exterior) usually make it up for it delicious bomb food. Here, it’s all about the food, nothing else – their signatures include crispy, perfectly-fried fried chicken and fried stuffed peppers. The chicken pieces are slightly on the greasy side (not a complaint), but surprisingly, the coating stays super crunchy and the insides moist and tender. The fried stuffed peppers are ridiculously good with solid seasoning and a nice contrast of textures from the crispy coating, the mild green pepper, and moist beefy filling. Another positive here is that it’s the perfect place to chill and catch up with friends over a cold beer, specifically a chilled glass of 500cc (오백!). Lastly, the place has not survived but thrived for over 20 years in the expensive, trend-setting area known as Garosugil in the cross hairs of Apgujeong-Sinsa. Now that I think about it, this place has saved me plenty of times from the unimaginable stress of my previous, long-to-be-forgotten workplace – which ironically was just one block away from here.

There are some common universal themes when it comes to old-school fried chicken joints in Korea. Here are a few things that I have observed over time:

The ultra-crispy, crunchy KFC is born from a technique called “double frying,” which involves deep frying the chicken twice.
Expect complimentary side kicks like pickled, cubed radish called chicken mu, airy chips called macaroni, or a salad consisting of shredded cabbage and ketchup/mayo dressing.
Don’t expect meaty pieces of chicken like in the West – Koreans use younger birds for better taste and texture.
Chicken + Maekju (Beer) = Chimek! 치맥! You can’t have one without the other. Oh, if you can’t drink, just pretend you can otherwise you’ll spoil the mood.
The service will usually be somewhere between okay to bad depending on your ajumma server but definitely expect the latter closer to weekends.
The interior and exterior will most likely be outdated, slightly drab, and possibly filled with soju and maekju posters of sexy celebrities.
Bypass the yangnyeom chicken 양념치킨 (sweet n sour sticky chicken) for regular and get the sauce on the side. You don’t want your crispy bird to get soggy, right? Image may be NSFW.
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“I love chicken. I love chicken products: fried chicken, roasted chicken, chicken nuggets – whatever. And going to Japan, I would see that these chicken were smoked and then grilled and then have this amazing crispy skin. ~ David Chang

Food ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★½ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★½ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Hanchu (한추)

549-9 Apgujeong-dong, Kangnam-gu, Seoul (강남구 압구정동 549-9)

Phone: 02-3446-5778

Hours: Open daily 5pm ~ 3am

Directions via Naver map: http://me2.do/I5QrMheJ

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I was going through some of my photographs recently and couldn’t believe all the photos that I’ve compiled over the past two years. I seriously have enough pictures that would not only last a lifetime worth of memories, but they’re enough to impress even the most professional photographer out there (e.g. Humans of Seoul, The Haenyeo Diaries, etc…). By the way, I’d be first to tell you that I am as amateur as it gets. Getting to the point……wandering through all the photos paid off big time. I was getting desperate trying to find a restaurant for this week’s food segment on Arirang’s Wonders of Jeju after a surprisingly disappointing visit to a recommended restaurant in my neighborhood. To my good fortune, there were plenty of great restaurants that I had yet to introduce nicely hidden away in my “other folder.”

My girlfriend and I visited this lovely udon noodle restaurant last summer near Hyupjae Beach in Hallim (40 minute drive west of Jeju City). Although it’s been about a year since we visited, memorable food experiences are never forgotten. The place was inviting, homey, and very clean – taking the look and feel of a remodeled and upgraded home with magnificent ocean front views. The food was on point in taste and presentation, and it was made even better watching the owner work the dough for our noodles. Simply put, the entire place had such a good vibe to it, a feng shui vibe that literally made me want to meditate during my meal. Another aspect that really impressed me was the hospitable service of the waitstaff and owners despite the lunch rush hour. Many busy establishments can’t hold service in these types of hectic conditions, but our young server did a great job composing herself throughout our meal. Honestly, I would love to go into details about the food here, but since I’m no expert in Japanese cuisine (some may call it Koreanized Japanese cuisine), I’ll let the pictures do the talking for now. Image may be NSFW.
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“Nothing would be more tiresome than eating and drinking if God had not made them a pleasure as well as a necessity.” ~ Voltaire

Food ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Soo Udong 수우동

1706-1 Hyupjae-ri, Hallim-eup, Jeju City (제주시 한림읍 협재리 1706-1)

Phone: 0 6 4 – 7 9 6 – 5 8 3 0

Hours: 11am ~ 10pm with break time 4 ~ 5, closed every Tuesday

Directions via Naver map: http://me2.do/GCbjWx34

Jajak Naeng Udon 자작 냉우동 (Cold Udon Noodles) @ 9,000 won + Heuk Dweji Currry Udon 흑돼지카래우동 (Curry Noodles w Black Pork) @ 9,000 won + Modeum Twigim 모듬튀김 (Fried Tempura Variety) @ 5,000 won

Heuk Dweji Currry Udon 흑돼지카래우동 (Curry Noodles w Black Pork) @ 9,000 won

Jajak Naeng Udon 자작 냉우동 (Cold Udon Noodles) @ 9,000 won

Modeum Twigim 모듬튀김 (Fried Tempura Variety) @ 5,000 won

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Lately, my partner and I have been entertaining a lot of guests as part housewarming for our close friends, part taste-testing for new dishes that we need input on. But for some reason or another, there’s been added pressure on us (more like myself) to cook up something more special and delicious every time, which is never an easy thing when experimenting with new recipes. Fortunately, this past weekend was a little different when we had another close friend visit from out of town, who by the way is also an accomplished cook and could probably teach us a thing or two about Korean cooking. Instead of experimenting with a new dish, we decided to make vegetarian jajangmyeon (noodles w black bean sauce), one of my favorite dishes that I usually prefer ordering because it’s cheap, fast, and pretty darn good (thanks to plenty of MSG). For those unfamiliar with jajangmyeon, this is a very popular and fairly inexpensive Korean-Chinese “fast food” dish that can be literally be ordered in minutes (no kidding). The delivery guys on scooters race in and out of traffic at breakneck speeds to achieve this unbelievably quick delivery service. Back in the days when I owned mini-motorbike in Korea, I had the honor of meeting one of these delivery men personally as he blindsided me during rush hour. Luckily, there was no serious harm done and my bike came out unscathed, so I let him off pretty easily (oh, those were the days). Now getting back to the dish again (and sorry for the slight digression), this vegetarian version was a big hit with our friend and couldn’t have been any better. The extra sauce was put to good use for jajangbab (rice with black bean sauce) a few days later. Sweet! ^^

A little more about jajang myeon: This is the most popular delivery food in Korea along with jangbbong (spicy seafood noodle) and tangsuyuk (sweet n sour pork). There are quite a few variations of jajangmyeon, which include ganjajangmyeon, a jajangmyeon served with the jajang sauce without the starch (sauce and noodles being served separately in different bowls); samseon jajangmyeon, which incorporates seafood such as squid, shrimp, and shellfish; jajangbap, which is essentially the same dish as jajangmyeon, but the sauce is topped on rice instead of noodles (see pic below). Most dishes are typically served with a side of danmuji (yellow pickled radish) and raw diced onions with black bean sauce.

“Worthless people live only to eat and drink; people of worth eat and drink only to live.” ~ Socrates

Here are the ingredients for this vegetarian jajangmyeon. Don’t hesitate to substitute ingredients that suit your palate.

For this recipe, I used kalguksu noodles (knife-cut noodles) but udon noodles work just as well. If you can find specialized Chinese-style jajangmyeon noodles at your local Asian grocers, go with that.

The jajangmyeon sauce (aka chunjang paste) comes in two forms: one is the powder form, and the other is a paste (pictured here). The latter has a fuller and deeper consistency, resulting in a more flavorful sauce. Definitely go with the paste if available.

For this vegetarian version, here are the vegetables I chose plus some sweet potatoes that were added post-pic. In the traditional sauce, the addition of pork is very common and a must for meat-lovers.

Cook the noodles according to package directions. But make sure to rinse several times under cold water after boiling them.

Since I was excluding the pork, which meant no sauteing, I just boiled everything from start to finish. If you are using pork or any type of meat, simply saute on a non-stick pan and then do the same with the vegetables. Many people saute the chunjang paste in the beginning, I’ve done it both ways with equal success.

Cook the firmer vegetables like carrots and potatoes first, about 5 a minute head start, followed by the softer ones.

Adding a mixture of corn starch + water is a must to thicken the sauce. As a personal preference, I like to add plenty of oyster sauce to add some complexity, depth, and umami goodness.

jajangmyun — When the sauce is ready to go, combine the ingredients and you should have something like this.

I like to make extra sauce for future meals like this one: jajang bab (rice with black bean sauce). Top with a fried egg or other garnish and you have yourself another hearty meal.

Jajang Myeon 짜장면 (Noodles w Sweet Black Bean Sauce)

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Prep time

20 mins

Cook time

20 mins

Total time

40 mins

Author: MYKOREANEATS

Recipe type: Noodles

Cuisine: Korean-Chinese

Serves: 6~8

Ingredients

1 300 gram package of chunjang paste (jajang myeon sauce)
1 package of kalguksu or udon noodles (or jajangmyeon noodles if available)
2 potatoes or sweet potatoes, diced
4 garlic cloves, finely minced
2 carrots, diced
1 zucchini, diced
1 onion, diced
2 tbsp cornstarch + ½ cup cold water
½ cup cold water
2 tbsp oyster sauce
½ cup corn (optional)
cucumber, julienned (optional for garnish/topping)

Instructions

In a large wok or frying pan, bring 4 cups of water to a rapid boil.
Add minced garlic and chunjang paste, mix thoroughly until paste is fully dissolved.
Next add all the vegetables to the mix, cooking on medium heat for about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, bring another pot to a boil. Cook the noodles according to package directions.
Lastly, add oyster sauce and the cornstarch/water mixture to the jajang sauce. Be sure to stir in the cornstarch mixture to prevent clumping. The sauce will thicken within minutes.
Place noodles in a serving bowl, ladle sauce on top, and enjoy some awesome jajangmyeon!

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There are very few quality Korean restaurants and pubs in the Itaewon area with the explosion of international fare, and this even more true in the foreigner-friendly area called Haebangchon (HBC) and Kyungridan. However, there is one place that I always make an effort to visit whenever I am back in Seoul — Damotori. This is a traditional Korean pub specializing in regional makgeolli (fermented rice wine) and terrific anju (food paired with alcohol). I’ve been coming here since they opened business 5 years ago, but just realized with my last visit that they have only gotten better over time.

Here are some things that stand out about Damotori:

Offers a huge, diverse list of makgeolli from all regions of Korean, minus only Jeju Island.
Each of their makgeolli is described thoroughly by origin, size, alcohol percentage, and price (in Korean).
The popular makgeolli sampler allows customers to taste test five different varieties for only 2,000 won.
They serve aspartame-free makgeolli for those with a discerning, particular palate.
The anju are top notch with their signature jeon (pancake) being cooked to perfection.
Interior is clean, quaint, and intimate making it ideal for small gatherings or even a date night.

If you’ve been in Korea for some time, you probably know by now that makgeolli and pajeon are rainy day foods. Here are a few theories out there, but I’m sure there’s some truth to each of them. 1) Back in the old days when farming was common practice, farmers would gather on rainy days and share a few bowls of makgeolli and pajeon, the latter being one of the easiest and cheapest dishes to prepare consisting of green onions, wheat flour, and egg. 2) It is believed that the sizzling sound when making pajeon is similar to the sound of rain drops. 3) Humidity increases on rainy days, resulting in blood sugar levels dropping and people craving food that will restore blood sugar levels. 4) Rainy days often have people feeling down and depressed. Flour-based food and makgeolli will help since they contain high levels of serotonin, which improves mood and emotion as well as appetite. 5) They’re both just downright delicious and make one hell of a combination, rain or shine . Image may be NSFW.
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“Food, in the end, in our own tradition, is something holy. It’s not about nutrients and calories. It’s about sharing. It’s about honesty. It’s about identity.” ~ Louise Fresco

Food ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Damotori (다모토리)

44-18 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (용산구 용산동 2가 44-18)

Phone: 070-8950-8362

Hours: 6pm ~ 2am every day

Directions via Naver map: http://me2.do/GUEf5b5Q

Damotori Yukhye 다모토리 육회 (Korean Beef Tartare) @ 18,000 won.

Haemul Pajeon 해물 파전 (Seafood n Scallion Pancake) @ 14,000 won.

Gosh, we ordered so many on this night that I forgot which tasted the best. The Nuelin Maeul 느린마울 on the right is one of my personal favorites because it’s aspartame-free and boasts some rustic flavors.

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Continuing with the line of old-school restaurants in Seoul, here’s another solid restaurant near Gongdeok Station (Line 5 and Line 6, Exit 4) doing Korean BBQ the right way since 1956. They specialize in pork varieties and that’s what my friends and I ordered: dweji kalbi 돼지갈비 (pork ribs) @ 12,000 won per 250g, sogeum gui 소금구이 (salt n peppered pork) @ 13,000 per 200g, and ggupdaegi 껍데기 @ 7,000 per sheet of pig’s skin. Everything was decent, nothing eye-popping or fancy, but definitely solid dishes made even better with a variety of fresh veggies, a few dipping sauces, and banchan that were “self-service.” The dweji kalbi was less sweet and “saucy” compared to modern day recipes where it’s drenched in a sugary-garlicky soy marinade; nevertheless, it was good in its own unique way. The sogeum gui and ggupdaegi tasted just as the name suggests. Always the curious one, when I asked the ajumma server if the recipe had changed throughout the years, she said that it hadn’t and it was passed down directly from the halaboji (grandfather) owner to his children. For me personally, I really liked the unique interior that nicely showed off their nearly 60 years of experience in the business. I also really liked their outdated furniture, their tattered walls covered in posters, framed pictures, and banners highlighting their success over the years, and most importantly, the super chill atmosphere where you can enjoy a good meal (and drinks) with friends. If you want an honest BBQ joint without any pretension and a lot of history, check out this restaurant in Mapo.

“Life expectancy would grow by leaps and bounds if green vegetables smelled as good as bacon.” ~ Doug Larson

Food: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★½ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Mapo Jincha Wonjo Choi Daepyo (마포진짜원조최대표)

112-4 Mapo-daero, Mapo-gu, Seoul (마포구 마포대로 112-4)

Phone: 02-719-9292

Hours: 10:30am ~ 11:30pm

Directions via Naver map: http://me2.do/xgMfPYcd

Dweji Kalbi 돼지갈비 (pork ribs) @ 12,000 won per 250g

Sogeum Gui 소금구이 (salt n peppered pork) @ 13,000 per 200g

Ggupdaegi 껍데기 @ 7,000 per sheet of pig’s skin

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For some reason or another, I am not a big fan of cold food and care even less about cold noodles. But this doesn’t mean I shun them entirely, it’s just that I usually find myself gravitating to the more heartier (and sadly less healthier) options like the always satisfying Korean BBQ varieties, spicy stews and soups, and my personal favorite, fried chicken. But when you have weather as beautiful and warm as it is here in Jeju right now, slurping down some cold noodles usually hits the spot – especially after a long winter.

One of the best places to get your cold (and warm) noodle fix is in Nohyeong-dong at Bongpyeong Maemil Chon. Open just over a year in a residential area off the main street of Halla University, the place has been satisfying customers with maemil (buckwheat) based noodles and mandu (dumplings). My friend and I decided to order three dishes on this late afternoon lunch visit: Maemil Deulkkae Kalguksu (Buckwheat Noodles in Ground Perilla Seed Broth), Maemil Bibim Guksu (Buckwheat Noodles in Spicy Sauce), and an order of Ggweong Mandu (Pheasant Dumplings). The combination of the three dishes really hit the spot. I’ll go on the record, again, by calling it the Holy Trinity of Korean food a la my visit to Gwakji Guksi a few weeks ago. With this fabulous trio, you had the rich, nutty, creamy, warm goodness coming from the Maemil Deulkkae Kalguksu; you had the tangy, sweet, slightly spicy, cold goodness from the Maemil Bibim Guksu; and you had the plump, moist, one-bite-and-it’s-gone deliciousness of the Ggweong Mandu. The three things worked in perfect harmony and left me reconsidering my previous stance on noodles. Oh, another thing this place does right are the two banchan side dishes. Two types of geotjeori (freshly made) kimchi, spicy and non-spicy, are provided to add another palate-pleasing dimension to your dining experience. This place won’t disappoint so check them out! Image may be NSFW.
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Having been only my first visit (but definitely not my last), here is some information I gathered about the restaurant and food:

Expect a wait during peak lunch and dinner hours. We went for lunch on a weekday and got seated 20 minutes later.
The kimchi is so popular here that you can buy them for purchase. Regular kimchi (600 grams) @ 4,000 won and non-spicy kimchi (600 grams) @ 3,000 won.
Maemil (buckwheat) is considered very healthy as it’s a low-calorie, gluten-free alternative to rice and wheat-based dishes. It is believed to boost metabolism and lower cholesterol due to its richness in magnesium. Koreans love it even more for its easy-to-digest properties and high nutritional content.
Eating pheasant is very low in fat compared to other meats and it’s supposed to increase one’s vitality and virility, especially wild game birds.
The place was packed with ajumma, ajjushi, and the elderly, reassuring me that the food would be solid and dope!

“We all eat, and it would be a sad waste of opportunity to eat badly.” ~ Anna Thomas

Food ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★½ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Bongpyeong Maemil Chon (봉평메밀촌)

761-1 Nohyeong-dong, Jeju City

Phone: 064-743-0337

Hours: 10am ~ 8pm

Directions to Nohyeong-dong branch: http://me2.do/5kuzIuZu

Directions to Ido 2-dong location near City Hall: http://me2.do/Fg4ueewY

Complimentary banchan (side dishes). However, they’re so good they can be bought: Regular kimchi (600 grams) @ 4,000 won and non-spicy kimchi (600 grams) @ 3,000 won

Maemil Deulkkae Kalguksu (Buckwheat Noodles in Ground Perilla Seed Broth) @ 6,000 won.

Ggweong Mandu (Pheasant Dumplings) @ 6,000 won.

Maemil Bibim Guksu (Buckwheat Noodles in Spicy Sauce) @ 7,000 won.

Maemil Mak Guksu (Chilled Buckwheat Noodles) @ 7,000 won.

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There aren’t a lot of opportunities for my girlfriend and I to check out restaurants far from our home in Oedo-dong despite having a durable scooter to get us around and the weather being more than agreeable. If possible, we try to avoid traveling long distances for safety reasons and for the simple fact that there are, quite sadly, more dangerous regular drivers who care little about us scooter people. However, this past weekend presented us with an important meeting, so we found ourselves in the port town of Hallim, an area known for its fishing boats and seafood restaurants. This good fortune gave us the chance to try out one of Jeju’s prized food: kalchi (hairtail).

No different than a lot of places we like to visit, Mijin Sikdang is a small, old-school (20 years and counting), and unpretentious place run by two friendly ajummas. Sandwiched between two larger businesses, partially obstructing its front view, and hidden in an even smaller alleyway, we had the hardest time tracking down the place even with the help of some locals. Once we did find the place, the two ajummas were more than helpful in explaining and pointing out their signature dish: kalchi guk (hairtail soup). In addition to the soup, we added a jeongsik set meal comprised of always delicious godeungeo jorim (spicy braised mackerel). First off, the hairtail soup lived up to its hype of being super “clean” in taste and having an invigorating, refreshing broth. From past experiences with hairtail soup, the fish pieces usually break apart into smaller bits during cooking, leaving it annoyingly difficult to eat. Here, you get the whole pieces intact which makes it not only easier to eat (still, be careful of the bones!) but provides some meaty goodness that I was looking for. The broth was on the mild end but still had a nice depth to it a la myeolchi (anchovy) broth. As for the jeongsik, the braised mackerel was solid, except the yummy radish pieces were nowhere to be found along with extra sauce. Nevertheless, everything worked in harmony and our stomachs were singing praises for another fantastic meal. As if our meal couldn’t have been more fish-centered, the kind ajumma surprised us with a complimentary dish called gajami gui (grilled flatfish). Crispy outer skin, meaty flesh, and unique texture made this another winner, but strangely it’s not on the menu. To feel less guilty about our binge eating, we burned off the extra calories by taking a walk near the fishing port. Image may be NSFW.
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Galchi (hairtail) is a prized ingredient here on Jeju Island. Here are some interesting facts about this wonderful sea creature:

Shiny, silvery fish reaching lengths of 3 feet and a width of an adult’s palm.
Frequent the waters around Jeju in the autumn from August to December with winter being its peak time.
Hand-caught with the use of a fishing pole or line instead of nets on the mainland, keeping it in pristine condition for market sale.
Important commercial export with most being delivered to mainland Korea, Japan, and beyond.
Fish is mild flavored with firm flesh, and exceedingly easy to clean and debone.
Excellent ingredient when served raw, in soups, in braised dishes, or simply grilled.
High in protein, low in fat and calories, and highly nutritious, making it an ideal gift for adults.

Food ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★½ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Mijin Sikdang (미진식당)

1328-16 Hallim-ri, Hallim-eup, Jeju City (제주시 한림읍 한린리 1328-16)

Phone: 064-796-6511

Hours: 10am ~ 8pm

Directions via Naver map: http://me2.do/IDWaHKH8

Part of the jeongsik set meal: kongnamul mu guk (beansprout radish soup).

Banchan side dish: tot muchim (hizike fusiforme) or seaweed salad.

Galchi guk (hairtail fish soup) @ 10,000 won.

Main for jeongsik set meal: godeungeo jorim (spicy braised mackerel)

Complimentary “service” dish: gajami gui (grilled flatfish).

For the late-night samgyeopsal (pork belly BBQ) crowd, plenty of soju is stocked.

A pretty diverse menu with a range of dishes. Although the hairtail soup is their signature dish, many locals often come for their jeongsik set meals for a quick meal.

Although it may not appear in the picture, the restaurant is sandwiched and hidden between two larger establishments. Keep a lookout!

Just a few buildings down is the port area where we found this band of ajummas working diligently in the warehouse.

That’s a lot of deveined and deshelled crayfish.

Just a portion of what we saw after our terrific meal.

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There aren’t many opportunities for people to say that they’ve eaten at Seoul’s oldest restaurant. Well, that’s exactly what I did on my last visit to Seoul. After coming across an article that lists Seoul’s 30 oldest restaurants (the original has a top 100), trying to make a visit to each and every one was top priority. Some people have asked what my interest (or slight obsession) is in this endeavor and it’s very simple: Korean restaurants, particularly old-school, traditional restaurants, are a dying breed slowly being replaced by newer, hipper, more modern and foreign-friendly establishments. If that wasn’t enough, on my last two visits to Seoul, three of my regular go-to places with a combined 50+ years experience just vanished, literally. Here is one of the sad victims called Yogi Guksu that I used to frequent.

Before any more places disappear, a visit to Korea’s oldest restaurant, Imun Seolleungtang, was a must for me. The place is iconic for its food and history, also serving as the backbone for many generations and elders in the Jongro district. And believe it or not, they’ve been open so long (1904) that the Joseon Dynasty ended their reign just a decade or so earlier! The only thing that bummed me out was learning that I missed out eating at their original location a few blocks away just 4 short years ago, and this despite having lived in Seoul off-and-on for the past decade. Regrets aside, this “newer” location was just as humble and unpretentious just as I imagined. As for the food itself, the order of seolleungtang (beef bone soup) and doganitang (beef cartilage/kneecap soup) were both solid dishes. The milky-white beefy broth provided an invigorating, refreshing aspect to the meal while the chunks of meat/cartilage/kneecaps kept our mouths busy with different meaty textures. Btw, this was my second time ordering doganitang, a dish that I detested when I was younger due its indiscernible pieces of meat, but I must admit that I now prefer it over the more popular seolleungtang. With any good seolleungtang restaurant, you gotta have solid banchan (side dish) and they do — kimchi and kkakdugi (cubed radish kimchi) were deliciously fresh, crunchy, and well-seasoned. With their time-tested recipe untouched for all those years, I can definitely see why this place has flourished even during the most tumultuous of times.

Just a sneak peak. The ajumma/imo (middle-aged woman/auntie) was kind enough to answer some informal questions during her downtime. Here are her thoughts about the food and the restaurant: “The broth is made by boiling ox bones, brisket, parts of a cow’s head, and some intestinal parts with different vegetables for at least a day. The recipe has basically stayed the same all these years. Honestly, there is nothing special about it, but I guess that’s the appeal of this time-tested dish. I’ve worked here over 30 years and many of workers in the kitchen have been here two decades or more. The word Imun comes from Imun-gol, the now-obsolete name of the restaurant’s location when it first opened and remembered as a gate door that led into the larger street. The word seolnongtang 설농탕 is an old variation of the word seolleongtang 설렁탕. Family ownership has remained intact being passed down from one generation to the next since its inception.”

“Food, in the end, in our own tradition, is something holy. It’s not about nutrients and calories. It’s about sharing. It’s about honesty. It’s about identity.” ~ Louise Fresco

Food ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★½ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Imun Seolleongtang 이문 설농탕

Address: 38-20 Ujeongguk-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul (Gyeonji-dong) 서울특별시 종로구 우정국로 38-20

Phone: 02-733-6526

Hours of Operation: 8am ~ 9pm

Directions via Naver map: http://me2.do/xO6lq4Nw

The lunch spread: seolleungtang (ox bone soup) up top and doganitang (ox cartilage/kneecap soup) on bottom with banchan in between. Note: the seolleungtang includes rice in the soup, so if you want it separately make sure to ask the server beforehand.

Per custom, add plenty of shaved leeks to the milky-white broth.

There was plenty of kneecap, cartilage, and other yummy indiscernible pieces of meat in the doganitang.

Seolleungtang up close and personal. Thanks Kent for being patient! ^^

Salt and gochugaru (red pepper flakes) for you to season your soup accordingly.

DSC_0409 (2) — No artificial additives like MSG are used in their dishes.

With over 100 years of history, the place makes headlines here and there.

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324 — A picture of their original location framed as a keepsake.

Menu written in calligraphy in Korean and Japanese for the locals and tourists.

Seolleungtang @ 8,000 won or larger version for 10,000 won / Doganitang @ 11,000 won or larger version for 13,000 won / Meoritang “Head Soup” for 8,000 won or larger version for 10,000 won.

This ajumma has been working here over 30 years. She was kind enough to divulge some of the history, the food, and the aura of this iconic restaurant.

Although it may not appear hard to find, the location is quite tricky from the main street. To the right of the restaurant is the building that houses McDonald’s. To the left is a fairly large parking lot. Asking one of the locals, like we did, will save you time if you’re unsure where you are.

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Here’s my play on the always delicious, bite-sized pieces of goodness called mandu, essentially dumplings stuffed with a mixture of various meat and vegetables. Honestly, I rarely make these at home since they’re so time-consuming and can easily be bought at the grocery store for cheap, but for the sake of “experimentation” I thought I’d do something different with them. One half of the batch was made into tteok mandu guk (rice cake and dumpling soup) and the other half was deconstructed as a snack of sorts. To give credit where credit is due, I got the deconstructed idea from one of the many cooking shows that I watch on my spare time. The show has two chefs competing to whip up something in 15 minutes using limited ingredients from a celebrity’s real refrigerator (yes, they actually haul the refrigerator into the studio). Anyways, one of the genius chefs tried to deep-fry regular mandu pee (dumpling wrappers) into quasi-tortilla shells to make some tacos—and it worked. Just like on the show, the mandu wrappers (surprisingly) fried into crispy shells and made for an excellent base for the topping. And speaking of the topping, that was the only thing that needed some improvement after thinking I could just stir-fry the inner components of a mandu straight up (tasted slightly bland and uninspiring). My next go around I’ll add some sauteed kimchi or pickled vegetables to give it some extra texture and flavors. The regular mandu was used to make a hearty pot of mandu guk and was quickly devoured by me and the girlfriend. Image may be NSFW.
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Mandu (Dumplings) 101: There are many variations of mandu like gogi mandu (meat), yachae mandu (vegetable) and my favorite, kimchi mandu. For my batch, I decided to make gogi mandu using Jeju’s famed ground black pork as the main protein and available vegetables in the fridge. The great thing about making mandu is that you can make them in large quantities and freeze them for later use, which sadly we couldn’t do because our freezer was already packed with other goodies. Mandu are delicious eaten alone, but they also make for great additions to soups. It is common to eat mandu guk (dumpling soup) or a variation called tteok mandu guk (rice cake and dumpling soup) on New Year’s Day in Korea.

“The discovery of a new dish does more for the happiness of the human race than the discovery of a star.” ~ Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

Half of the filling ingredients were diced for the deconstructed topping.

Mandu pee (wrappers/skins) can be bought at most Asian grocers. If you have extra space in your freezer, I recommend buying two packs and making extra for later use.

Heat up a generous amount of olive oil, then fry the mandu wrappers for about 20 seconds or until browned.

Place the fried wrappers on a serving dish, or if you’re like me, a large cutting board.

Stir-fry the toppings until cooked through. Add extra salt and pepper to taste.

Another view of the deconstructed mandu!

Finely dice your ingredients and mix them together.

Add a generous amount of filling into the wrapper. Moisten the outer edge with water or egg yolk as an adhesive. Fold into a half-crescent moon.

Once filled and made into half-crescent shaped moon, bring the two edges together and pinch at the corners to stick.

Using ready-made seolleungtang (beef stock) from the market is highly recommend. Another option is to boil any cut of lean beef along with dashida (instant beef stock) for the broth. Rice cakes are optional.

Boil the ingredients together for about 10 minutes with a dash of salt and pepper. Adding a beaten egg is optional for a creamier texture. Mandu pieces should float or rise to the top when fully cooked through.

Add some garnish and you’re ready to eat tteok mandu guk!

Mandu (Dumplings) Two Ways: Deconstructed Mandu & Mandu Guk

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Prep time

30 mins

Cook time

30 mins

Total time

1 hour

Author: MYKOREANEATS

Recipe type: Fusion, Traditional

Serves: 40 dumplings

Ingredients

1 package mandu pee (dumpling wrappers; about 40 pieces)
1 package of seolleungtang stock (or beef stock)
1 block soft tofu
1 lb ground pork (or beef)
8 mushroom pieces, finely chopped
1 small onion, finely chopped
3 scallions, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely minced
2 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp sesame oil
1 tsp sugar
2 eggs
dash salt and pepper

Instructions

For the deconstructed mandu:
Prep half of the vegetables and tofu by dicing into 1cm pieces while mincing the remaining for the mandu filling, set aside.
Heat up a generous amount of olive oil to deep fry, then fry the mandu wrappers for about 20 seconds or until browned. Set aside fried wrappers on paper towel lined plate.
Saute the diced vegetables and seasonings until cooked through. Add salt and pepper to taste. Plate accordingly onto the fried mandu wrappers. Enjoy!
For the tteok mandu guk:
Bring the beef stock to a boil in a pot over medium-high heat. Add the dumplings and rice cake slices; cook at a boil for about 8~10 minutes or until the dumplings have risen to the surface and the rice cake slices are tender. Add beaten egg for silkier texture.
Garnish with fried egg yolk called jidan, dried laver, and scallions. Enjoy piping hot!

Note: All recipes, or more specifically seasoning and spice measurements, contained in MYKOREANEATS are approximations. Growing up in an old-school Korean kitchen where everything was measured by hand, there was a strict but important rule called “son-maat” (손맛), literally meaning “taste from one’s hand.” My mom would swear by this and always cooked all the dishes using her raw cooking instincts to provide comfort food at its best. This concept of “son-maat” is pretty important in Korean cooking, so I’ve always wanted to keep that tradition alive even with the blog. Another aspect that I love about “son-maat” is the idea of putting one’s own signature into a dish. What makes your food taste like yours, not like anyone else’s, is literally and figuratively the “taste of one’s hands.” As a side note, most Korean dishes like stews, stir fries, and banchan (side dishes) are cooked to taste, meaning that the addition of extra spices is, more often than not, added during the cooking process itself. In that sense, don’t fuss and worry about exact measurements, but rather focus on developing your own “son-maat.”

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On the list at #7 of Seoul’s oldest and best restaurant is the legendary Cheongjinok 청진옥 in the Jongro district. They’ve been satisfying customers with their hearty bowl of haejangjuk 해장국 (“hangover soup”) for over 75 years with generational ownership intact, meaning the recipe has been unchanged for all those years. Unlike other establishments, their hangover soup is packed with sunji 선지 (congealed cow’s blood), tripe, and other intestinal goodies in a beefy broth that’s been simmered for more than 24 hours. Being my first time eating here, I was a little apprehensive because I’ve had my fair share of bad experiences with these types of haejangguk. Fortunately, the restaurant lived up to its reputation of being one of the best in town—the sunji had a tougher texture than expected (a good thing) and similar to firm tofu, there were no strange odors emanating from the tripe, and the broth was invitingly pleasing (slightly soybean paste in taste). All together, there were some mean things going on texture-wise, but it really hit the spot and left me fully satisfied. The restaurant is open 24 hours with a packed house during peak times. With or without a hangover, head over to this iconic place for your haejangguk fix. The cost is 9,000 won. Image may be NSFW.
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The Joongang Daily has a great article about Korea’s different haejangguk varieties. Here is a small excerpt from the article:

Haejang soup is said to taste better when served in an earthenware bowl. Haejang means to eat or drink something in the morning to relieve a hangover. The soup often contains different kinds of meat, vegetables and seasonings and can be easily eaten without side dishes, though kkakdugi, or sliced, pickled radish, goes well with it. Some eat the soup at night with alcohol and again the next morning to relieve the ill effects from their drinking.

“Haejang soup was the beginning of the Korean dining out culture,” said Chung Hae-kyung, a food and nutrition professor at Hoseo University. Different types of haejang soup can be found all over the country. Besides its taste, the soup is affordable and widely available. It is usually sold in humble-looking restaurants and costs about 5,000 won ($5).

There was no concept of dining out during the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties, but taverns sold haejang soup as an accompaniment to drinks or as a complete meal. Though all share the same name, there are many types of haejang soup.

A blood sausage soup is sold on the streets of Cheongjin-dong, Seoul; bean sprout soup (kongnamul gukbap) in Jeonju; pork soup (dwaeji gukbap) in Busan; corbicula shell soup (jaecheop guk) in Seomjin; marsh snail soup (olgaengi guk) in inner Chungcheong province; and dried pollack soup (bukeo guk) in Gangwon province ― guk means soup and bap means rice.

Food ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Cheongjinok 청진옥

Address: 24 Jongro-1ga, Jongro-gu 서울 종로구 종로1가 24

Phone: 02-735-1690

Hours of Operation: Open 24 hours

Directions via Naver map: http://me2.do/Fr3c36PK

Up close with tripe and sunji (congealed cow’s blood).

Up close with tripe, cabbage, and beansprouts.

Salt and gochugaru (red chili flakes) to season your soup accordingly.

A few gents enjoying some soup with makgeolli (rice wine).

Their previous location captured via screenshot.

One of the few places that give off that old-school feel despite its rather new, modernized location.

Lee, Hyori watching me throughout my meal.

Plenty of beef based soups and some anju dishes (food paired with alcohol) for the drinking crowd. The bindaetteok (mungbean pancake) @ 13,000 won is also a big seller here.

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For those who are crazy about finding the best Korean Fried Chicken (KFC) in Seoul, you definitely have plenty of great places to choose from. You’ve got your ubiquitous chains like Kyochon, Two Two, Neh Neh, Goobneh, Kkanbu, and BBQ Chicken—not saying they’re the best but all solid choices from my experience—to the smaller, non-franchised joints like Reggae Chicken in Hongdae and Hanchu (one of my personal favorites) in Apgujeong. Through word of mouth, I was able to find another fantastic joint in the foreigner-friendly district of Itaewon, or more precisely Kyungridan.

Ungteori Tongdak (엉터리통닭) is a small mom n pop place serving by far the crispiest, crunchiest, and loudest fried chicken hands-down in Seoul. To my knowledge, I can’t ever recall eating anything as close to crunchy as I did here, giving my mouth a much-needed workout while at the same time thinking how they were able to get the skin so crispy (answer: high heat, double fry). The crispy, crackly outer shell alone would have given them the nod for best chicken in town, but sadly they were lacking in one vital area: proper seasoning. Surprisingly, the seasoning here was on the mild side and lacked eye-popping flavors that I was expecting. The lack of the seasoning, which I hate to admit, had me dipping the pieces in the standard sweet and spicy sticky sauce which accompanied the pieces. If they were to notch it up a bit with their spices or possibly brine the chicken beforehand, this place would easily take the top spot in my opinion.

On this particular occasion, I had the pleasure of meeting up with the unofficial KFC Queen at SeoulFoodie for this review. She, like me, is absolutely crazy about KFC and was rumored to hit up 5—yes 5—different fried chicken places in one night. Here’s what she had to say about the place:

“Also finally tried 엉터리통닭 (ungturee) fried chicken in Kyunglidan! It’s a well known local hole-in-the-wall joint with super crispy batter/skin. Although it was extremely crunchy, it didn’t have as much flavour as I like – but it was def. the most crunchiest fried chicken I’ve ever had! They only have two things on their menu – this and 골뱅이무침 (spicy conch w. noodles) so we ordered one of each. Super nice owners, a lovely mom and pop shop but I will have to stick to my favorite Korean fried chicken joint.”

“In order to have good friend chicken, you should wash and season the bird the morning you’re preparing it for dinner. Don’t wait and do it right before you start cooking. Throw it in the refrigerator, seasoned, that morning, and give it a chance to soak up all the salt and pepper and goodness.” ~ Paula Deen

Food ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★½ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Ungteori Tongdak (엉터리통닭)

Address: 225-154 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Phone: 02-790-7737

Hours: Open daily 3pm ~ 7am

Directions via Naver map: http://me2.do/5JsaSwP3

Golbaengi Muchim 골뱅이무침 (Spicy Sea Whelks w Noodles)

Complimentary salad with soy-wasabi dressing.

High heat, double fry = crunchy, crispy birds.

Small, intimate, hole-in-the-wall, and did I forget to say small.

Don’t you dare bring coffee or food from other places into their establishment. No!

With only two dishes—KFC @ 14,000 won and Spicy Snail Whelks w Noodles @ 15,000 won—the place must be doing something right.

On the flip side, don’t you dare get take-out and take it to other establishments. They have been getting complaints non-stop about customers taking their food to other places.

Ajeossi doing his thing every day, all day from 3pm ~ 7am.

Go up Kyungridan towards the Hyatt until you see the red n white sign to your right.

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Recently, I got to enjoy one of the tastiest and healthiest bibimbap (rice mixed w vegetables) on the island with MJ and some friends. And if you can believe it (I couldn’t), it’s full-on vegetarian with several mushroom varieties providing a “meaty” texture. Other toppings include thinly shaved radish strips, seaweed, aster saber (chwinamul 취나물), lettuce, fried egg, and did I forget to mention mushrooms? Even more unique, the dish uses a soy-based sauce instead of the standard spicy version for a mild yet savory flavor. Although I’m perfectly happy with regular bibimbap that includes a bountiful array of vegetables and meat in a spicy red pepper sauce, it was a nice surprise getting a vegetarian version filled with seasonal, local ingredients straight from Jeju Island. The other dishes we got on this visit was the Hongdae Curry w Chicken Tenders (10,000 won) and Saebyul Dweji Oreum (Char Sui Pork on Shredded Cabbage) for 13,000 won. Both were solid dishes that complimented the other dishes very well—so much, in fact, that everyone in our group seemed to have a hard time picking which one to eat first . We ended up sharing everything Korean-style. Image may be NSFW.
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So, what’s this place that serves up such delectable, healthy dishes? The place is called Jeju Slobbie (pronounced “slow-bee” and stands for “slow but better”), a restaurant-cafe-bakery that is not only making bomb food, but they’re being sustainable and giving back to their community. They are one of the few places that support the growing slow food movement, sourcing their ingredients from local farmers and focusing on mainly vegan/vegetarian dishes. In addition to being a healthy, eco-friendly restaurant, they also support various causes domestically and globally. At home here in Korea, they train and support underprivileged youth through the Young Chef’s internship and mentoring program. Abroad, proceeds from their in-house Eco-Shop (Hongdae branch only), which sells handcrafted items and kitchenware, support children in Cambodia. And if this wasn’t good enough, they hold regular cooking classes, publish a bi-monthly magazine focusing on healthier eating and living, and much more.

Currently, there are three locations including Cafe Slobbie in Hongdae, Sungbuk Slobbie in Sungbuk-dong, and Jeju Slobbie in Aewol.

Food ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Jeju Slobbie (제주 슬로비)

Address: 1587 Aewol-ri, Aewol-eup, Jeju City (애월읍 애월리 1587 애월리사무소 복지회관 1층)

Phone: 064-799-5535

Hours: Open daily 11am ~ 9pm, daily break time from 3~5pm

Slobbie Life Official Page: http://www.slobbielife.net/slobbie/

Directions via Naver map: http://me2.do/GbJ6OAeN

Hongdae Curry w Chicken Tenders 홍대커리와 닭튀김 @ 10,000 won.

Saebyul Dweji Oreum 새별돼지오름 (Char Sui Pork on Shaved Cabbage)

Up Close Saebyul Dweji Oreum 새별돼지오름 (Char Sui Pork on Shaved Cabbage)

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Continuing the theme of Seoul’s oldest and best restaurants, here’s a place that’s been serving a mean bowl of Chueotang 추어탕 (Mudfish/Loach Soup) for over 80 years. Their signature dish comes in two varieties: one with whole mudfish intact and the other grounded into the soup. As recommended by the lovely halmoni (grandmother) owner, I tried out the ground version and really enjoyed it for its surprising heartiness—especially when combined with rice, noodles, and leeks. The taste itself was similar to other red chili pepper based soups but had a subtle bean flavor from the soybean paste. With some luck, the owner allowed me to sample a few pieces of the small, eel-looking fish and totally got a kick watching me eat it for the first time. Along with some interesting facial expressions that I was making, I had the hardest time chewing through all the spiny bones from the fish (the fish itself was fine). To be honest, I couldn’t believe people actually ordered this version risking fish bones and sprine being caught in their throat (no joke). All fun aside, the owner told me that the older folks prefer the original version while the younger clientele enjoy the less adventurous one. Another fun fact revealed to me was that they have been using the same ingredients and recipes since the first day they opened back in 1932. There’s definitely not many places that can say that. Image may be NSFW.
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Chueotang and the area surrounding Yonggeumok are synonymous of the Korea of old. Here are some interesting facts about the two:

Chueotang has been a popular dish with farmers and common folks residing in Namwon. For Namwon-style chueotang, check out Namwon Chueotang.
The soup is considered a hangover-reliever as well as stamina food, meaning it’s very popular with men and the senior citizen crowd.
Mudfish is high in protein, iron, calcium, and vitamins; oftentimes served to hospital patients suffering from high blood pressure, atherosclerosis, and obesity.
It is believed that eating Chueotang enhances one’s skin and appearance since mudfish inhabit nutrient-rich muddy waters.
Yonggeumgok and its surrounding is known for being the Gangnam of 1930’s, being popular with politicians and high-profile dignitaries.
The area is still famous for its vast number of hangover soup restaurants making it a hot spot for loyal patrons like the elderly.

“People like consistency. Whether it’s a store or a restaurant, they want to come in and see what you are famous for.” ~ Millard Drexler

Food ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★½ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Yonggeumok (용금옥)

Address: 165-1 Da-dong, Joong-gu, Seoul 서울 중구 다동 165-1

Phone: 02-777-1689

Hours: 10:30am~10pm.on weekdays; closed every second and fourth Sunday of the month

Directions via Naver map: http://me2.do/G2XaQHEj

Chueotang 추어탕 (Mudfish/Loach Soup) @ 10,000 won.

Although optional, I enjoyed plenty of sliced leeks and rice in my soup.

Taking a hearty bite of fried tofu, rice, noodles, and mushrooms,

I can finally say I’ve eaten mudfish/loach now. Interesting looks creature, no?

The interior is small, but it has history written all over it.

The hanok-style gives the place a homey feel to it.

Yonggeumok runs in the family—three generations and counting.

Chueotang @ 10,000 won. They have a handful of anju (food paired w alcohol) for those in the drinking mood. The jeon (pancakes) are supposed to be solid here.

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After being pleasantly surprised with the visit to K-Peppers (Korean fusion restaurant) in Middleton, I had to try and copy their delicious, spicy version of bulgogi (thinly sliced barbecue beef, or translated literally as “fire meat”). For those who don’t know what bulgogi is, it’s thinly sliced rib eye steak (or another prime cut of meat) that is marinated overnight with a main combination of soy sauce, sugar, garlic, ginger, Mirin, and sesame oil. How’s the taste you ask? Basically, it’s the most tender and flavorful meat out of all the Korean BBQ varieties—next to my other favorite meat dish called kalbi—that can only be described as sweet, savory, and full of rocking flavors. The sweetness is especially appealing to foreigners, who usually end up falling in love with this dish and other Korean BBQ variations. At most restaurants, you’ll usually find this grilled right in front of you on an iron cast griddle right smack in the middle of the table for everyone to fight over. However, it’s more than acceptable to cook it on the stove top and serve individually like I did with my batch. Like most Korean BBQ dishes, it is served with a variety of lettuce (red, green, and perilla leaves are my favorite), which is then wrapped with the meat, ssamgjang (dipping sauce) and other namul banchan (vegetable side dishes). As for today’s dinner, the family loved it with Sis giving a big thumbs up and my approving in her own unique way (Korean moms are always hard to please). Unfortunately for me, nothing I cook really tastes that great (the downfalls of cooking), but I must say that it did closely mimic the spicy version at K-Peppers! Image may be NSFW.
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Cut the vegetables into thin slices and set aside.

Rib-eye steak is ideal for this recipe, but other cuts of meat will work as well.

Once you get the meat sliced thinly, place in glass bowl and prepare the sauce ingredients.

With the main combination of soy sauce, sugar, garlic, ginger, Mirin, and sesame oil, make sure to taste the sauce before mixing with the meat. It should taste sweet, slightly salty, nutty, and savory. Adjust as necessary.

Give the meat and sauce a good rubdown, wrap airtight, and store in the refrigerator overnight.

For extra kick, include some gochujang (red pepper paste) or gochugaru (red pepper flakes) as much as you like along with the vegetables. I used about 1 tbsp per serving, which resulted in a little perspiration and extra glasses of water to cool down the heat.

Prep time: 25 minutes

Cook time: 10-15 minutes

Marination time: minimum 8 hours to overnight

Ingredients: Serves 4 people

2 lbs rib eye steak
5 tbsp sugar
1/2 cup soy sauce
2 tbsp sesame oil
5 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp ginger, minced
2 tbsp Mirin (cooking wine)
4 tbsp gochujang (red pepper paste)
1 tbsp gochugaru (red pepper flakes)
1 onion, julienned
1 carrot, julienned
3 green onions, cut into 2-inch pieces
sesame seeds (garnish)

Directions:

1. Try to cut the beef into paper-thin slices, set aside in glass bowl.

2. Mix all the sauce ingredients together minus the gochujang (red pepper paste). Add the sauce to the meat, coat well by hand. Marinate in the refrigerator for a minimum of a few hours, although overnight refrigeration is recommended.

3. After marination, cook the meat on medium high heat using a non-stick skillet or frying pan (adding a little oil is optional). Add 1 tbsp of gochujang (more if you want it spicier) for each serving. Cook until meat is well-browned but not burnt, about 5~7 minutes. Add vegetables during the halfway mark to retain their crispness.

4. Serve hot with rice and banchan (side dishes) including lettuce varieties for wrapping. Red leaf lettuce, Boston bibbs, and romaine lettuce work best.

*For easier slicing, stick the beef in the freezer for about 20~25 minutes. This will make cutting much easier; we’re looking for paper-thin slices.

**Although selecting premium cuts of meat is recommended for better taste and quality, my mom often uses cheaper cuts like chuck and blade which work just fine.

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