Either my neighborhood is a hot spot for great restaurants (matjibs 맛집) or I am becoming less picky about food (probably the former), but here is another solid restaurant specializing in spicy braised kimchi 김치찜 dishes in Oedo-dong.  Believe it or not, my first visit was not very pleasant, which was my fault alone for not sticking with their signature dishes. Instead, MJ and I ordered the jeongsik 정식 (set meal) thinking we could eat something light for lunch. The jangdokdae jeongsik @ 12,000 won person included ganjang gejang 간장게장 (raw marinated crab) as the main and okdom gui 옥돔구이 (grilled tile fish). Simply put, the crab had an off-bitter taste that rendered our palates useless for the rest of the meal and left us feeling bummed (luckily, the fish and sides were fine). I would not recommend the jeongsik, or at least here at this location. On the next visit, I thought I learned my lesson by NOT ordering what the restaurant specializes in. I didn’t. For some reason or another, I just wasn’t in the mood for a kimchi dish despite MJ’s plea to try it since she had tried and loved it several times before. Instead, my rebellious nature gravitated towards the small order nakji bokkeum 낙지볶음 (spicy stir-fried octopus) for 20,000 won and that’s what we got. And what we got was a heaping bowl of spicy deliciousness that really hit the spot. The octopus was soft and tender, and not overly chewy when prepared the wrong way. The addition of vegetables and somyeon 소면 (thin noodles) were perfect compliments to the octopus, providing some added texture to the dish. One thing to stress here though, the dish is spicy. This is the type of spicy where your mouth burns, even after drinking water, and has your stomach making slightly strange noises (ok, just my stomach). If you can’t handle the spice, let the server know to knock it down a notch. Overall, my second visit completely made up for my first visit and made me a believer again. With expectations high over their braised kimchi dishes, I can’t wait to make it back when I get a craving for good ol’ braised kimchi.

For those living in Jeju City, rest assured, the main branch (since 2005) is located in Yeon-dong with a few more scattered around the city.  Seogwipo City is represented as well!

Menu: minimum 2 person order for jeongsik
Jangdokdae Jeongsik w Ganjang Gejang and Okdom Gui @ 12,000 won
Dombae Jeongsik w Dombae Gogi (Boiled Pork Belly) and Okdom Gui @ 9,000
Bulgogi Jeongsik (Sweet BBQ Beef) Jeongsik @ 8,000 won
Boribap Jeongsik (Barley Rice) Jeongsik @ 7,000 won
Mugeunji Jeonbok Kalbi Jjim (Braised Ripe Kimchi w Abalone, Short Ribs) 50,000 won / 35,000 won
Mugeunji Kalbi Jjim (Braised Ripe Kimchi w Beef Short Ribs) 42,000 / 35,000 / 25,000
Mugeunji Kimchi Jjim (Braised Ripe Kimchi) 30,000 / 25,000 / 18,000
Mugeunji Godeungeo Jjim (Braised Ripe Kimchi w Mackerel) 30,000 / 25,000 / 18,000
Mugeunji Dubu Kimchi Jjim (Braised Ripe Kimchi w Tofu) 30,000 / 25,000 / 18,000
Nakji Bokkeum (Spicy Stir-Fried Octopus) 30,000 / 25,000 / 20,000

“So long as you have food in your mouth, you have solved all questions for the time being.” ~ Franz Kafka

Food ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Umeoniwa Jangdokdae (어머니와장독대)

Address:  532-3 Oedo-dong, Jeju City  (제주시 외도1동 532-3)

Phone: 064-744-7889

Hours: Open daily 11am ~ 9pm

Directions to Oedo-dong branch: http://me2.do/GnulVITn

Directions to Ido-2dong in Jeju City: http://me2.do/GpX4e887

Directions Yeon-dong in Jeju City: http://me2.do/FZek93lT

Directions to Seogwipo branch near City Hall: http://me2.do/GpX4Cfvf

Share

The post Umeoniwa Jangdokdae 어머니와장독대 (Oedo-dong, Jeju City) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

Coming in at #13 on the list of Seoul’s oldest and best restaurant is the very popular naengmyeon restaurant named Gangseo Myeonok. Open since 1948, they have been serving their refreshingly delicious Pyongyang-style “cold noodles” to the masses near City Hall, Seoul for over 65 years. In addition to their noodles, they offer a la carte dishes like dolsot bibimbap (rice mixed w vegetables in stone bowl) @ 9,000 won, yukgaejang (spicy beef soup w vegetables) @ 8,000 won, and bindaetteok (mung bean n pork pancake) @ 12,000 won, along with a variety of BBQ options including premium grade hanwoo (domestic cattle) and pork belly for those yearning for some protein. As for my friends and I, we passed on the meat and went straight for their signature dish—mul naengmyeon (literally “water cold noodles”). Their bowl of naengmyeon is served in a large, stainless-steel bowl filled with a generous amount of noodles and (surprisingly) an ungenerous amount of the standard cucumber-pear-meat combination in a very savory chilled beef broth. The first thing that caught my attention was the very addicting broth, which had a unique flavor coming from the beef brisket and the dongchimi kimchi 동치미 김치 (chilled radish water kimchi) brine; slightly sweet and briny with some fruity tones came to mind. A quick flashback, my last mul naengmyeon experience was quite disappointing at the legendary restaurant called Woo Rae Oak, leaving me hesitant to try out other “famous” places known for their cold noodles. I have to say, with certainty, this one bowl changed my views on this humble yet simple dish, and I’ll be seeking out other naengmyeon hot spots in the near future.

Share

The post Gangseo Myeonok 강서 면옥 (City Hall, Seoul) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

Some of the great things about having a food blog is that I get to eat more than my fair share of delicious food (pretty obvious, right?), and in the process, I get to meet some pretty cool people along the way. Not too long ago, I was able to meet a cool person by the name of Graham Holliday, a freelance journalist/blogger/writer, and most importantly, a Korean food lover like me. He was in Jeju to sample the island’s traditional food and to collect information for his book on Korean regional cuisine. . For a few short days, we got to chat about life (particularly our nomadic lifestyles) and tried some delicious Jeju dishes in the process. However, the highlight was introducing him to the local haenyeo (female free divers) that live and work in my neighborhood. For obvious reasons, they were reluctant to give an interview on such notice because, according to them, it’s not an everyday occurrence where a strange foreigner comes asking for an interview on the spot. Thanks to Graham’s calm and sincere demeanor (plus some of his own Korean), the haenyeo halmonis (aged 74 and 77) really opened up to Graham during the interview. I was thankful to learn just as much during this exchange and captured some pictures on my haenyeo Facebook page. Fast forward to our rather impromptu meeting in Seoul, some personal obligations brought me back to the city while Graham finished up his trek from the southern provinces working his way up to Seoul. Being big fans of the traditional stuff, we hit up some of Seoul’s oldest restaurants during our two-day food binge. My faint memory recalls visiting legendary places like Imun Seolleungtang (Korea’s oldest restaurant), Gwanghamun Jip (an iconic kimchi jjigae joint), Byukdam Pocha (a hole-in-the-wall pocha shack), Ungteori Tongdak (one of my favorite KFC places), and this review of a hidden gem in Myeongdong Halmae Nakji.

Open for over 65 years in the bustling, tourist-friendly area of Myeongdong, the restaurant has been doing some delicious things with their signature dish of nakji bokkeum (spicy stir-fried octopus). They have two varieties with minor differences: nakji baekban-a set meal with spicy octopus, rice, and side dishes for 9,000 won person.; nakji bokkeum-larger portions (i.e. more octopus) and served on a platter with sides but no rice (an additional 1,000 won, if needed). The cool thing about the place is the open kitchen concept (not sure if that was deliberate or not) where the veteran ajumma stir fries the spicy octopus  for everyone to see. We ordered the nakji bokkeum, a conspicuously-looking, fiery red dish that looked small at first glance but ate like a hearty meat. The spice level was not nearly as painful as we expected, Graham handled it with  little or no sweat while I needed a few napkins and water at my side. Honestly, I think the ajumma toned down the spice level because, according to many older Koreans, foreigners can’t handle spicy food (lol). Little do they realize that many Koreans (or Korean-American like me) can’t tolerate mouth-burning dishes as this was supposed to be. Anyways, I really enjoyed the dish–the combination of super tender pieces of octopus and sauce paired perfectly with the blanched sprouts, which helped alleviate all the spiciness.  This is simple, straight-forward, unpretentious food that fits the mold of a 65-year-old restaurant. We both gave it two thumbs up and did 2 cha (2nd round) at the aforementioned fried chicken place. 

Share

The post Myeongdong Halmae Nakji 명동 할매낙지 (Myeongdong, Seoul) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

Off the main road leading to Gwakji Beach, there’s a quaint, family owned and operated restaurant named Kkot Bab (“Flower Food”), and they serve some delicious, home-style meals in a cozy, down-to-earth atmosphere. They only have three dishes to choose from, making the decision to pick one a little easier (or not?)–yachae bibimbap (vegetarian rice bowl), samsaek deulkkae sujebi (three-colored hand-torn pasta in perilla seed broth), and gangdwenjang ssam jeongsik (set meal). The first two items are 7,000 won and the set meal goes for 10,000 won, both respectable prices in my opinion.

We tried out the bibimbap and jeongsik during lunchtime, which we were lucky to get their early (11am) because customers were coming in left and right after we arrived. The food came out and it was another vast spread of Korean dishes–perfect for food photographers like me but a pain for my friends who have to wait a few minutes. To name a few of the items, our two “appetizers” came out first, which included danhobak jeon (kabocha squash pancake) and salad, then there was the colorful and vibrant vegetarian bibimbap with a few added nut varieties, stir fried pork (cross between bulgogi/jeyuk bokkeum), dwenjang jjigae (soybean paste soup), gangdwenjang (thick soybean sauce), roasted duck, lettuce varieties for wraps, and plenty of banchan (side dishes). As you might imagine, it was a delightful feast with everything being made with loving care. It was made even better when the owner said most of the ingredients are local and no artificial “enhancers” are used in the dishes. These are the places that make Jeju a special place to live and eat.

Disclaimer: The jeongsik set meal includes stir-fried pork that had a slightly off-smell, meaning it didn’t smell fresh nor like the sauce (think bulgogi/jeyuk bokkeum) that it was cooked in. The owner was kind enough to make another batch but to no avail, the same odor remained. Was this a case of me being a foodie snob and being too picky with food? It’s possible. Could all the customers and my dining friend (who all seemed to be enjoying the dish) be wrong? Probably not. So, I’ll err on the side of caution and let you decide.

Non-disclaimer: Kkot Bap offers a range of traditional teas and drinks for dinersto enjoy indoors or outdoor, where a beautiful and pristine flower garden is maintained. Last but not least, the bathroom is–unlike most other bathrooms in Jeju–a welcome addition to the restaurant.

Share

The post Kkot Bab 꽃밥 “Flower Food” (Gwakji-ri, Jeju City) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

Bokjin Agujjim has been serving a mean platter of agujjim 아구찜 (spicy braised monkfish) for local residents and agujjim fanatics for over 10 years near City Hall (Ido-2dong). Their dish is served with big, tender chunks of monkfish (agu) mixed with beansprouts and a generous amount of fish eggs and intestine—the latter two ingredients being the restaurant’s unique take on this addicting dish. Their fish eggs and intestine have become so popular that the owners created a few other dishes to meet customers’ demands. They include ahl-nejang-jjim 알내장찜 (spicy braised eggs n intestine) for 28,000 won (medium) / 38,000 won (large) and a stew version called ahl-nejang-tang 알내장탕 (spicy egg n intestine stew) for a respectable 9,000 won per person. From what I hear, they’re all winners for those who like a little monkfish, eggs, and intestines.

I remember my first experience with this dish was not very pleasant, so I vowed to stay away from it if possible. However, having a partner who loves a good agujjim, she convinced me that she found a place that would put all my agujjim fears to rest. And it did. Out came a big platter filled with huge chunks of monkfish (think steak-like pieces) WITHOUT all the bones like in the past and WITH all the lobster-like, firm-textured meatiness that I love about this lesser known fish. Dipped in a combination of soy sauce and wasabi, it was pure joy with each and every bite (plenty of pics to prove down below). The entire meal was a blessing and forever changed my views on this dish with humble beginnings. If you’re a big fan of this dish, I promise you this place won’t disappoint.

FYI: Monkfish is nothing short of an ugly, slimy, and slightly terrifying creature from the deep depths of the ocean. If you can get the image of the fish out of your head, I’m pretty sure you’ll fall in love with this dish like I have. Hard to imagine something so ugly tasting so delicious, right?

*There’s some mixed feelings as I write this last review for my weekly segment on Wonders of Jeju. Half of me will miss the adventurous aspect of riding the scooter through unknown parts of the island and finding hidden gems when least expected; half of me is filled with anxious anticipation of the unknown future that awaits me, whether that be on Jeju, Seoul, or the States. In any case, it was a complete honor and pleasure to introduce some of the best restaurants on the island for the past 8 months, which includes an impressive 30+ restaurant reviews during that span. Things would not have been possible without some helping hands though.  A big, special thanks to all the fans who tuned into the show each week to follow my Korean food adventures. It was great bonding with each and every one of you through our love of Korean food. A bigger, more special thanks to the Wonders of Jeju crew who worked tirelessly behind the scenes to make the show fun and entertaining. You made it that much more bearable to come in to the studio at 11pm (my bedtime) every week. The biggest, most special thanks to the talented DJ Joe (aka Spankysdad). I couldn’t have stayed on as long as I did if it weren’t for your gracious hospitality, your endless on-air sarcasm, your cute son, and your fondness for chicken and beer (okay, I admit that’s me). Last but not least, much love and affection goes out to my partner MJ, who has pretty much been the better half of our adventures on Jeju. All things would not have been possible without your constant support and love.  Thank you everyone and keep on eating Korean!

“Food is symbolic of love when words are inadequate.” ~ Alan D. Wolfelt

Share

The post Bokjin Agujjim 복진아구찜 (Ido-2dong, Jeju City) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

So, one of the annual events that most Jejuites take part in is the picking of wild gosari, or bracken fiddleheads. They are a prized ingredient here on Jeju with the wild varieties being rich in calcium, protein, and dietary fiber. They are so important that ajummas and halmonis (actually most Jeju elderly) scour the mountainside in search of the long, unique looking fern that make itself available in spring. My partner and I got to experience our first gosari picking with the help of a local friend, who happens to be so good at finding and picking enough gosari to sell at the market. Note: our friend even closes his popular curry restaurant during the short picking season to make some extra income. Luckily for us newbies, we learned quickly from our veteran friend and picked just enough to prepare one of my favorite soups, yukgaejang (spicy beef soup with vegetables).

I have fond memories of yukgaejang during my childhood. I remember my mom would cook a huge pot of this spicy soup with a lot of stringy beef brisket, lasting us days if not weeks on end. The best part about this soup is the chunkiness and the harmonious nature of the ingredients. You have the long strands of shredded brisket with the equally long pieces of leeks or scallions, gosari, and bean sprouts that make it a hearty, lumberjack of a meal. Another aspect that makes it unique is the gosari itself, providing another interesting texture to the dish while at the same time giving the broth a deep earthiness. Needless to say, I couldn’t get enough of this soup as a kid, and I’m so glad that I could reconnect to it by having wild gosari to work with for this particular batch.

Note: Most likely you will not have wild gosari to cook with, but dried gosari will be sold in packages at most Korean markets and Asian grocers. Simply rehydrate by a soaking in water for at least 30 minutes before boiling in the soup. Gosari can also be used as a popular side dish called gosari namul, where it’s boiled and then sauteed with few seasonings. You might have seen it in a bowl of bibimbap.

Another note: Substitute the beef with chicken and you have dak yukgaejang, providing an even healthier alternative to the traditional, classic dish. In Jeju Island, yukgaejang is made with pork in a thick broth similar to momguk. Here’s a great article featuring the two dishes explained by Yang, Yong Jin, a Jeju cuisine expert and someone I had the pleasure of meeting recently.

Yukgaejang 육개장 (Spicy Beef Soup with Vegetables)

 

Print

Prep time

30 mins

Cook time

60 mins

Total time

1 hour 30 mins

 

Author: MYKOREANEATS

Recipe type: Traditional

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• For beef stock:
• 1 lb. beef brisket or skirt steak, ripped into thin strands
• 2 leeks, quartered
• 4 garlic cloves, halved
• 1 small onion, halved
• 1 piece of radish
• For soup:
• 1 oz. dried gosari (fernbrake), cut into 3-inch pieces
• 8 oz. soybean sprouts (or mung bean sprouts)
• 4 daepa (leeks), cut into 3-inch pieces
• 3 tbsp gochugaru (red pepper flakes)
• 1 tbsp gochujang (red pepper paste)
• 3 tbsp soy sauce (preferably guk ganjang, soup soy sauce)
• 3 garlic cloves, finely minced
• 2 tbsp chili oil
• 1 tbsp sesame oil
• salt and pepper to taste
• 2 eggs, beaten (optional)

Instructions

1. In a large pot, combine all the ingredients for the beef stock and roughly 6 cups of water. Boil at least 45 minutes, refilling with water if necessary. Remove the beef and strain the stock, set aside. When cool enough to handle, shred the beef by hand and set aside.
2. Clean and cut vegetables into uniformed lengths. Gosari should be soaked at least 30 minutes prior to usage.
3. In another large pot, saute the vegetables with chili oil, 5 minutes or until wilted. If you don't have chili oil, you can saute vegetable oil and red pepper spices to make your own chili oil.
4. Add the beef stock to the pot with the remaining seasonings. Bring to a gentle boil and let simmer for 25 minutes. Add more water if necessary.
5. Add salt and pepper to taste.
6. Serve hot with rice and enjoy!

3.3.3070

Share

The post Yukgaejang 육개장 (Spicy Beef Soup with Vegetables) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

For fried chicken enthusiasts in Seoul, here’s another solid KFC place that I had the pleasure of “chimek-ing” (chicken n beer) at with a few friends. Open about a year, they serve some of the tastiest fried birds south of the Han River (strong statement, I know). A vast selection of fried chicken are on the menu, but on both occasions we opted for their signature “hotel chicken,” which is marinated with 7 different kinds of vegetables and seasonings for two days. The result is a fragrant and palate-pleasing fried chicken that’s got a crispy coating on the outside and a moist and tender inside. The best part of the chicken is the meatiness and size, comparable to Western-style fried chicken from back home. Supposedly, younger birds are more often used to retain tenderness, but this place otherwise. Lastly, the best fried chicken joints have one thing in common: a solid in-house sauce. Here, they go one step further by serving two savory sauces, one a mayo/garlic combo and the other a sweet n tangy maeshil (Korean plum) sauce.

The only caveat about this place is the location, situated in a residential maze with apartment complexes and a few steep hills separating it from Boncheon Station (Green Line 2). If you like a nice workout before your meals, then this place is just for you. Interesting fact: the owner (originally from Daejeon) deliberately set up shop near residential apartments to give adults with children a chance “to play” in their own neighborhood. If the food is any indication, this place will be filled with more than just local ajeoshis and ajummas.

For a solid list of KFC joints in Seoul, check the following link: http://mykoreaneats.com/kfc-seoul/

“There is nothing better than a good friend, except a good friend with a box of fried chicken.” ~ Anonymous

Food: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Noltu 놀터 (short for “Playground”)
902-8 Bongchun-dong, Gwanak-gu (관악구 봉천동 902-8)
Telephone: 02-871-9023
Hours: Open every day from 4pm ~ 2am, closed on Tuesdays
Click here for an interactive map: https://goo.gl/maps/mVQYi

Share

The post Noltu 놀터 “Playground” (Bongcheon-dong, Seoul) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

Foodie memories have a short lifespan until the next “best” meal is had, and it gets even shorter as a food blogger who’s continuously searching out the best (and oftentimes oldest) restaurants in the city. However, this is a special place for several reasons. One, my good friend Kent (who teaches martial arts in Seoul) and I literally stumbled upon it after getting lost in the back alley ways off the main street in Gwanghwamun. After a good 20 minutes of wandering about aimlessly in the maze-like neighborhood, we were lost like foreigners in a strange land but eventually found it with some helping hands (actually pointing fingers). Needless to say, seeing their iconic signboard was not only a relief, it was refuge. Two, the place made such an impression I came back the next day with Graham Holliday, the Noodle Pie guy who’s writing a book about Korean regional cuisine and who just happened to join me at Myeongdong Halmae Nakji the previous day. We both enjoyed picking the owner’s and veteran workers’ brains about the history of the place, their thoughts on development and modernization in the area, and carrying out regular small talk during their down time. Three, the holy trinity refers to three main dishes that are Korean classics: kimchi jjigae 김치찌개 (spicy kimchi pork stew), gyeran mari 계란마리 (rolled egg omelette) and jeyuk bokkeum 제육볶음 (spicy stir-fried pork). For those who know me personally, you know kimchi jjigae is a necessary staple in my life and I’d have no qualms eating it every day.

Gwanghwamun Jip, hands-down my favorite restaurant in Korea, is an iconic hole-in-the-wall joint doing kimchi jjigae the right way for over 30 years. Partially prepped and readied beforehand, they serve their kimchi jjigae in a large pot over an iron-cast broiler, and all that’s left is a short boil down to start enjoying the sharp flavors of the super-ripe kimchi, the deep savory broth, the fatty chunks of pork, and the healthy side dishes. The gyeran mari, although humble in appearance, paired perfectly with the spicy jjigae: fatty and fluffy and full of finely diced vegetables (leeks mostly). The much less talked about dish–jeyuk bokkeum–was also a winner in my books. Unlike standard versions where it comes out cooked and ready to eat, here you gotta basically cook it yourself from start to finish. It’s basically a hearty jjim dish where it starts off as a stew and the liquid boils down to become a slightly thickened sauce. Although slightly time-consuming (I’d say 10~15 minutes), it was surprisingly packed with rich flavors and different textures despite the absence of kimchi. Honestly, I might have liked it more than the kimchi jjigae, their signature dish. Now that I’m back in Seoul, I’m pretty happy that the “best” meal can be had over and over again just by making a trek over to Gwanghwamun.

Some interesting and possibly not-so-interesting facts from two official visits:

• Prepares and utilizes minimum 6-month-old mugeunji 묵은지 (super ripe) kimchi in their jjigaes.
• Menu used to be extensive, but difficulty maintaining inventory and old age has led to their current downsized menu.
• Clientele are not mainly older senior citizens but just the opposite: 3/4 of the people visiting are young couples, families, tourists, and foodies with camera in tow.
• The owner flagged down a vegetable seller to purchase a 20kg bag of onions for 5,000 won.
• This is authentic old-school Korean food at its best. You won’t find a more iconic place as this, especially in the touristy area of Gwanghwamun.

“Food is symbolic of love when words are inadequate.” Alan D. Wolfelt

Food: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★½ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Gwanghwamun Jip (광화문집)

12 Saemunan-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul (서울 종로구 새문안로5길 12)

Telephone: 02-739-7737

Hours: Open every day from 9am ~ 10pm

Click here for an interactive map: http://me2.do/5MlXeyn5

Share

The post Gwanghwamun Jip 광화문집 (Gwanghwamun, Jongro, Seoul) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

A few friends and I had the honor of dining at Neungla Bapsang 능라밥상 near Jongro the other day, where they specialize in authentic North Korean cuisine ranging from rice bowls (bibimbap) to different appetizers (nokdu jeon, aka mung bean pancakes). From my experience with North Korean food–mostly naengmyun 냉면 (cold noodles) restaurants–it was always the same conclusion when it came to describing the food: simple, rustic, and slightly on the bland side. This was my second time eating here, but I must say both experiences have been very positive. Most the dishes, although simple and straight forward in appearance, were very fresh, healthy, and palatable. Even better, they don’t use any artificial ingredients (i.e. MSG). Although there’s not a whole lot of difference with its southern counterpart in terms of flavors and ingredients used, all the dishes had a unique aspect to them befitting the region where they originated from. In addition to the great food, we also got to meet and talk with the restaurant’s owner, a well-known North Korean defector and current professor at Kyungin Women’s College, Aeran Lee. She, along with the staff, were very helpful in explaining each dish, while at the same time thoroughly enjoyed watching me climb chairs to take pictures.

Here’s a little more information on the restaurant’s owner, Aeran Lee. In March 2010, as one of the 10 recipients of the annual Award for International Women of Courage from the U.S. State Department, she met with First Lady Michelle Obama and Secretary of State Hillary Clinton. She has played a leading role in helping other North Korean defectors settle and get an education in South Korea. Ms. Lee earned a doctoral degree in nutritional science and food management from Ewha Womans University, the first North Korean woman to do so. She has been raising funds for female and children defectors ever since. She currently gives lectures on the side and operates the restaurant with a staff comprised mostly of North Korean defectors.

Proceeds from restaurant sales also benefit other North Korean activism, so please check it out if you live in Seoul!

Food: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Neungla Babsang (능라밥상)

197-1 Nakwon-dong, Jongro-gu, Kyungsan Building 2nd Floor (종로구 낙원동 197-1 경산빌딩 2층)

Phone: 02-747-9907/02-733-9905

Hours: 9:30am ~ 9:30pm

Click here for an interactive map: https://goo.gl/maps/HdhFc

Share

The post North Korean Cuisine Neungla Bapsang 능라밥상 (Jongro, Seoul) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

Run by a tag-team duo of friendly ajummas with infectious smiles to make your day (or evening) a little better, they’ve been serving up a wide variety of fresh, spicy, braised seafood dishes in their small container-like restaurant for over 20 years. According to one of the ajummas, much of their seafood is bought fresh every morning at a nearby fish market, ensuring freshness and deliciousness unlike other places that use frozen seafood. With that assurance, some friends and I stuffed ourselves with their recommended jjukkumi bokkeum 쭈꾸미 볶음 (spicy stir-fried baby octopus) along with a few bottles of green bottled drinks (i.e. soju), mandatory for a true pocha experience. Everything was great from start to finish: the starter side dishes were light yet filling, being balanced with fresh greens like seaweed (kelp), lightly blanched vegetables, steamed tofu, ubiquitous kimchi varieties, and a main spicy dish of tender baby octopus that paired perfectly with our drinks. Throw in perfect weather with good conversation among friends, it was a true pojangmacha 포장마차 (makeshift tent street vendors) experience with great food and even better service. Highly recommended for people who like old-school places such as this!

Food: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Byukdam Pocha 벽담 포차

Address: 서울종로구 1.2.3.4 가동  

Hours: early afternoon to late night (specific hours pending)

Directions via Naver map: http://me2.do/5hVxGvxY

Share

The post Byukdam Pocha 벽담 포차 (Jongro, Seoul) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

Jajangmyeon (noodles w black bean sauce)–one of my favorite dishes that I usually prefer ordering because it’s cheap, fast, and always good–was on the menu for this week as I go through my personal repertoire of recipes at my friend’s home. With a kid in the house and healthy eating a priority, this is not a dish I would make frequently for anyone, including adults, as it’s loaded with enough sodium and calories to carry over to the next meal. However, tweaking the recipe can make it “healthier,” while at the same time lessening the post-meal guilt trip that comes with eating most joonghwa yori 중화 요리 (Korean-Chinese cuisine). For example, this particular recipe includes a generous amount of vegetables and freshly made flour noodles randomly discovered at a local noodle shop. Being pretty versatile, you can substitute the standard pork protein with seafood, beef, or even chicken, and don’t hesitate to mix-and-match your vegetables to your liking. Whether ordering by delivery or making it at home, there’s nothing better than a hearty and comforting bowl of noodles in a rich, savory black bean sauce.

For those unfamiliar with jajangmyeon, this is a very popular and fairly inexpensive Korean-Chinese “fast food” dish that can be literally be ordered within minutes (no kidding!). Other popular dishes include a spicy bowl of noodles and seafood called jangbbong and another favorite of mine, tangsuyuk (sweet n sour pork). There are quite a few variations of jajangmyeon, which include gan jajangmyeon, a jajangmyeon served with the jajang sauce without the starch (sauce and noodles being served separately in different bowls); samseon jajangmyeon, which incorporates seafood such as squid, shrimp, and shellfish; and lastly jajangbap, which is essentially the same dish as jajangmyeon with rice taking the place of noodles. Most dishes are typically served with a side of danmuji (yellow pickled radish) and raw pieces of onion with black bean sauce.

Funny back story about the quick delivery service: The delivery guys on scooters race in and out of traffic at breakneck speeds to achieve unbelievably quick delivery service. Back in the days when I owned a motorbike in Korea, I had the honor of meeting one of these delivery men personally as he blindsided me during rush hour. Luckily, there was no serious bodily harm done and my bike came out unscathed, so I let him off pretty easily with an innocent stare down.

“People who love to eat jajangmyeon are always the best people.” ~ Asian Julia Child

Jajangmyeon 짜장면 (Noodles in Sweet Black Bean Sauce)

 

Print

Prep time

20 mins

Cook time

30 mins

Total time

50 mins

 

Author: MYKOREANEATS

Cuisine: Korean-Chinese

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 1 300 gram package of chunjang paste (jajangmyeon sauce)
• 1 lb diced pork (pork belly or pork chops work fine)
• 1 package of kalguksu or udon noodles (or jajangmyeon noodles if available)
• 2 potatoes or sweet potatoes, diced
• 2 garlic cloves, finely minced
• 2 carrots, diced
• 1 zucchini, diced
• 1 onion, diced
• 2 tbsp cornstarch + 1⁄4 cup cold water
• 2 tbsp oyster sauce
• 2 tbsp brown sugar
• ½ tbsp sesame oil
• cucumber, julienned (optional for garnish/topping)
• olive oil

Instructions

1. In a large wok or frying pan, saute the pork with some olive oil and minced garlic, cook until browned.
2. Add chunjang paste to the mix and stir fry over high heat, 5 minutes.
3. In a separate non-stick pan, stir fry the vegetables in olive oil, about 10 minutes or until cooked through.
4. Combine the two ingredients into a larger sauce pan and add roughly 2 cups of water, enough to cover ingredients. Add more water if you like extra sauce. Bring to a rapid boil for a minute and then set at low heat.
5. Lastly, add oyster sauce, sugar, sesame oil, and the cornstarch/water mixture to the jajang sauce. Be sure to stir in the cornstarch mixture to prevent clumping. The sauce will thicken within minutes.
6. Cook the noodles according to package directions, but make sure to rinse well under cold water.
7. Place noodles in a serving bowl, ladle sauce on top, and enjoy some awesome homemade jajangmyeon!

3.3.3077

Share

The post Jajangmyeon 짜장면 (Noodles in Sweet Black Bean Sauce) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

Following the theme of teaching a Korean man how to cook for his family, I was indirectly assigned the task of making something that’s easier than making instant ramen (yes, it’s that easy): Yubu Chobab 유부 초밥 (Fried Tofu Rice Pockets). Simply, it’s rice mixed with finely diced vegetables and seasonings, and then lovingly hand-stuffed in fried tofu pockets. It’s a light, healthy, and kid-friendly snack that makes for the perfect lunchbox addition and ideal for picnics–comparable to bite-sized favorites like Jumuk Bap (Rice Balls) and Kimbap. Just a side note: every day is quite the culinary adventure as I dig through my friend’s refrigerator to see what’s available for cooking. On this particular day, it was a package (aka kit) for yubu chobap that caught my attention–probably purchased because we got a youngster running in the house. Tomorrow, I have my sights on using canned tuna that’s stocked like Legos here.

How easy is it, you ask? The aforementioned kit comes with 3 items: the fried tofu pockets (known as bean curd as well), a vinegar-based super sweet sauce, and a packet of dried ingredients (carrots, sesame seeds, seaweed, etc). You simply add the seasonings to the rice and then stuff the tofu pockets accordingly. Pretty simple, right? There are also pictures on back if you can’t read Korean directions. For those with advanced cooking skills, add some more nutrients to the plain rice by dicing any vegetables to your liking and giving them a quick stir-fry before mixing. This recipe shouldn’t take any longer than 20 minutes, excluding the rice cooking time. Good luck and give it a try!

“When baking, follow directions. When cooking, go by your own taste.” ~ Laiko Bahrs 

Yubu Chobap 유부 초밥 (Stuffed Fried Tofu Pockets)

 

Print

Prep time

15 mins

Cook time

15 mins

Total time

30 mins

 

Author: MYKOREANEATS

Cuisine: Japanese-Korean

Serves: 24 pieces

Ingredients

• 3, 4 cups cooked white rice
• 1 package yubu chobap
• ½ bell pepper, diced
• ½ onion, diced
• ½ cup broccoli florets, diced
• ¼ cut shaved seaweed

Instructions

1. Prep the cooked rice and place in a large bowl, cool 15 minutes before using.
2. Dice the vegetables into small pieces, saute altogether with a small amount of olive oil, and add to the rice.
3. Pour half of the seasoning and sauce from the packet on to the rice mix. Make sure to taste as you go since the sauce tends to be super sweet. Mix well with a wooden spoon.
4. Squeeze out extra liquid from the tofu pockets.
5. Scoop out the rice with a small spoon and fill the tofu pockets accordingly.
6. Plate onto a dish and then sprinkle exposed rice with the mix of dried seasonings. Enjoy!

3.3.3077

Share

The post Yubu Chobap 유부 초밥 (Stuffed Fried Tofu Pockets) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

via Mykoreaneats: Day 5 of cooking and teaching a Korean man how to cook for his family. With a bunch of garlic chives and leftover squid from the other day in the fridge, quickly made a few batches of a kid-n-adult-friendly dish called Haemul Buchu Jeon 해물 부추 전, aka Seafood n Chive Pancake. It’s basically the same as haemul pajeon, which utilizes scallions or green onions in place of chives, but has a subtle onion-y and garlic flavor compared to the former. Although I’ve made tons of different jeon variations over time, there’s always something new I learn during the process. This time was no different. I finally learned how to perfect these delicious, savory pancakes, which is ideal on rainy days or when I’m in the mood for makgeolli, Korea’s humble rice wine. How perfectly did this batch come out? Think nicely formed crust and crispy edges with caramelized squid pieces in every bite. Even better, this dish is relatively healthy with the garlic chives being chock-full of vitamins and nutrients–meaning you can eat like 10 of them!

A little more about pajeon: One of many jeon varieties that contain green onions/ scallions as its prominent ingredient. The basic one consists of just scallions along with a batter of flour and eggs, but endless variations of this dish exists by simply adding other ingredients such as seafood (squid and shrimp are ideal), kimchi, or other vegetables. This is a popular dish known as anju (side dish paired with alcohol), where many Koreans order this along with Korea’s ubiquitous green bottled drink soju.

If you’ve been in Korea for some time, you probably know by now that makgeolli and pajeon are rainy day foods. Here are a few theories floating out there that I’m sure carry some truth to each of them. 1) Back in the old days when farming was common practice, farmers would gather on rainy days and share a few bottles (or brass bowls) of makgeolli and pajeon, the latter being one of the easiest and cheapest dishes to prepare consisting of green onions, wheat flour, and egg. 2) It is believed that the sizzling sound when making pajeon is similar to the sound of rain drops. 3) Humidity increases on rainy days, resulting in blood sugar levels dropping and people craving food that will restore blood sugar levels. 4) Rainy days often have people feeling down and depressed. Flour-based food and makgeolli will help since they contain high levels of serotonin, which improves mood and emotion as well as appetite. 5) They’re both just downright delicious and make one heck of a combination, rain or shine.

“Eat well or don’t eat at all.” ~ Mykoreaneats

Haemul Buchu Jeon 해물 부추 전 (Seafood n Chives Pancakes)

 

Print

Prep time

10 mins

Cook time

30 mins

Total time

40 mins

 

Author: MYKOREANEATS

Serves: 2

Ingredients

• 2 cups buchim garu (pancake mix)
• 4-6 oz buchu (garlic chives), cut into 2-inch pieces
• 1 squid, cut into 2-inch pieces
• 2 cups cold water (+ ice cubes)
• ½ onion, thinly sliced
• olive oil
• dash of salt and pepper
• 2 tbsp soy sauce
• 1 tsp cider vinegar
• 1 tsp brown sugar
• 1 tsp sesame oil
• 1 tsp water

Instructions

1. In a large mixing bowl, combine the pancake mix, cold water, and salt n pepper. Whisk until the flour is fully dissolved and a runny consistency is achieved, much lighter than your average American-style pancake.
2. Prep the squid and garlic chives accordingly, cut into 2-inch pieces. Add to the batter and mix thoroughly. The chives should dominate the batter as too much batter will make the jeon soft.
3. In a generously oiled and heated non-stick frying pan, evenly spread out a thin layer of batter until covering the pan. Cook until the batter "dries" and edges become golden brown. Flip carefully and repeat, about 7 minutes on each side.
4. Enjoy alone or with dipping sauce, made by mixing the last five items on the list.
5. For extra crispy jeon in a nutshell: 1) cold cold water in batter, 2) extra chives and squid in batter, 3) lightly, runny batter, 4) high heat and generous amount of oil!

3.3.3077

Share

The post Haemul Buchu Jeon 해물 부추 전 (Seafood n Chives Pancakes) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

Just when I thought we were running out of options in Bongcheon-dong (near Seoul National University, Green Line #2), my friend and I stumbled upon another solid place specializing in donkkaseu 돈까스 (breaded pork cutlets), one of my favorite dishes because it’s fried (like KFC) and I’ve never had a donkkaseu that I didn’t like (click here for one of my personal favorites). Bongi Donkkaseu & Naengmomil (봉이 돈까스&냉모밀) boasts every kind of donkkaseu imaginable–regular, cheese, fish, chicken, and a peculiar “curse-inducing” spicy version–but we opted for the regular and chicken set which came with a refreshing bowl of momil guksu (soba noodles), which could have been a meal in itself for its sheer size. Both hovered around the 7,000 won range. Overall, they were nicely handmade cutlets with a crispy outer covering and tender, meaty insides. They were accompanied with the standard shredded cabbage, rice, soup, and not-so-standard cubed radish kimchi (kkakdugi), the latter being a nice surprise but they should have kept it refrigerated instead of sitting out at room temperature. A minor hiccup that was encountered was the sauce on both of our dishes. They used the same sweet and spicy sticky sauce used at most fried chicken joints (i.e. yangnyeom chicken). The owner told us it was the sauce of choice among her regulars. It didn’t work for us. The more familiar sweet and tangy katsu sauce was immediately presented to us and all was well.

Here are some things that really stood out at this unique donkkaseu restaurant, which I will be visiting again soon to try their aforementioned “curse-inducing” spicy pork cutlet:
*Service is top-notch, run by the most sincere ajumma with her husband doing kitchen duties. They genuinely seemed to care for all the customers that walked in, many being regulars (university students, locals) and random people like me.
* They give back to the community through an organization called Mirinae Project, literally meaning “pay ahead of time.” Customers can donate any amount of money, which will then go into a food fund for those who cannot afford meals. See pic below.
* You can leave your mark there, literally. Post-it notes adorn the walls of the restaurant (as well as vintage vinyl LPs), giving the place a special vibe and charm. Reminds me of Gwaksi Guksi in Jeju.
* Everything costs over 5억 or $500,000 dollars!? When new restaurants or businesses open in Korea, many people will kindly offer their support by saying “사업 번창하세요,” meaning more or less “prosper and make a lot of money.” The owners wanted to convey this through their “expensive” menu and keep everything on the light side.

Food: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★★ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Bongi Donkkaseu & Naengmomil (봉이 돈까스&냉모밀)

913-35 Bongcheon-dong, Gwanak-gu (서울특별시 관악구 봉천동 913-35)

Phone: 02-877-7009

Hours: 11am ~ 9pm, closed 2nd n 4th Fridays of the month

Click here for an interactive map: http://me2.do/GAGM9wg4

Directions: Come out Bongcheon Station (Green Line #2), Exit 1 and walk straight for roughly 200 meters. Take a right at the second block and it will be on your left hand side. 

Share

The post Bongi Donkkaseu & Naengmomil 봉이 돈까스&냉모밀 (Bongcheon-dong, Seoul) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

There’s not many BBQ places in Seoul that have really stood out despite my love for anything meat. This is not to say there aren’t any great places out there, but rather there are too many solid places because, by most accounts, they usually have the same setup that never disappoints: meat grilled over charcoals (or a gas burner), a hefty amount of banchan and greens, and plenty of cold beer andsoju on hand. These are the basics for me at any decent gogi jip (“meat house”). However, this next place is an anomaly that does things a little differently.

Seo-Seo Galbi is an institute in the Korean BBQ realm that’s been around for over 50 years. They serve only one dish and one dish only: hanwoo sogalbi (domestic beef marinated in soy sauce) @ 150 grams for a very respectable 15,000 won. I’ve always been a big proponent of restaurants that specialize in a few main dishes, but for a restaurant to serve only one item is on another level. And that they are. With everything else being bare bones – the only banchan is green chili peppers and dipping sauce – the only thing that matters here is the meat. Juicy, flavorful, tender, moist, and simply irresistible. It’s made even more addicting with the sweet, garlicky sauce that’s loaded with chopped scallions n onions, providing a welcome texture to the already succulent pieces of meat. My friend and I got there just before opening at 12pm but the place was already packed with hungry patrons eating without a care in the world (good food will do that to you). When we left the restaurant 45 minutes later, a line stretched out to the adjacent corner street. In a nutshell, the food is that awesome to justify the long lines. FYI, no reservations are taken, meaning it’s on a first come, first serve basis for serious meat-lovers.

Prior to the visit, I saw a special feature on TV covering this iconic restaurant and its impressive operations. First, they obtain the entire rib section of the cow, meticulously trim off excess fatty tissue, and then carefully cut the ribs and meat into “fillets.” The ribs – exactly 1,000 servings of beef shorts ribs to be exact – are then bathed in a sweet and aromatic soy sauce marinade that sits for hours to maximize flavors. Lastly, the short ribs are cooked over hardwood charcoals on an oil drum-like container where customers stand throughout the entire meal. That’s right, standing room only here, just as the restaurant name implies.

Disclaimer: Just some things to keep in mind. The place gets quite smoky with very limited ventilation and fans, so don’t go if you’re worried about your clothes smelling like meat. The place serves no rice and kimchi, but customers have the option to buy them at the local mom n pop convenient store located just down the street. The instant rice (햇반) and kimchi are ready for purchase. 

Food: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★½ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Seo Seo Galbi (연남서서갈비)

109-69 Nogosan-dong, Mapo-gu (서울 마포구 노고산동 109-69번지)

Phone: 02-716-2520

Hours: 12pm ~ 2am, closed on 2nd Monday of the month

Click here for an interactive map: http://me2.do/FxZLAulz

Share

The post Seo-Seo Galbi 서서갈비 (Shinchon, Seoul) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

With a friendly tip from one of the local ajummas working at a restaurant that I frequent, I was able to make one of my favorite banchan (side dish) varieties: Maneul Jjong Bokkeum (Stir-Fried Garlic Scapes). These crunchy, slightly fibrous stems remind me of mini-asparagus except that they pack a lot of garlicky punch. I enjoy eating them like other regular banchan or add them to plain white rice as a topping for bibimbap (which is really good, btw), but you can easily eat them any way you want (i.e. anju). There are two basic ways to prepare these garlic scapes – pickled (jangachi) and stir-fried (bokkeum) – but I enjoy the latter because it keeps the scapes crunchier and it’s less time consuming than pickling (although it keeps less than the pickled version). Last but not least, they’re very inexpensive to make. This 1kg batch cost roughly 3,000 won (bought from the traditional market) and lasted us a few weeks. For those who are looking for something healthy, delicious, and quick, this might be the recipe you’re looking for.

“The one reason why I got into cooking was because I wasn’t good at anything else – not that I was good at it, but it was considered honest work.” ~ David Chang

Maneul Jjong Bokkeum 마늘쫑볶음 (Stir-Fried Garlic Scapes)

 

Print

Prep time

10 mins

Cook time

10 mins

Total time

20 mins

 

Author: MYKOREANEATS

Recipe type: Banchan Side Dish

Cuisine: Traditional

Serves: 5 cups

Ingredients

• 1 bunch garlic scapes (approx. 30 stems)
• 1 cup soy sauce
• 4 tbsp brown sugar
• 1 tbsp corn syrup
• 1 tbsp sesame oil
• olive oil
• gochugaru (red pepper flakes; optional)
• dried shrimp (optional)
• sesame seeds (optional)

Instructions

1. Wash scapes thoroughly under cold water, shake off excess moisture, then cut into 2-inch pieces.
2. Add soy sauce, sugar, corn syrup,and sesame oil until mixed through. Sample and adjust according to preference.
3. In a non-stick pan, heat a generous amount of oil on medium heat.
4. Add scapes and stir frequently until scapes start to brown.
5. Add the soy sauce mixture and cook for a few more minutes, stirring frequently to ensure nothing burns. Add dried shrimp if available.
6. Sample the scapes to ensure they're cooked through - they should be crisp but not hard.
7. Garnish with toasted sesame seeds and serve as banchan.

3.3.3077

Share

The post Maneul Jjong Bokkeum 마늘쫑볶음 (Stir-Fried Garlic Scapes) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

Fittingly, killing two birds with one stone happens naturally when you’re in Buam-dong, the home of two fried chicken heavyweights separated by less than 20 steps from one another (really, I counted). Gyeyeolsal Chicken and Sai Chicken are considered some of the best of Seoul’s KFC offerings, and I finally got to visit both with a friend who really likes her chicken. Getting straight to the point, they’re both NOT that spectacular or special in any way – and definitely not worthy of being called the best in Seoul. If you’re familiar with traditional yetnal tongdak 엣날통닭 – where the entire bird is fried as is – it’s pretty similar to that AND it’s missing proper seasoning. Really, I have no idea where all the hype came from, but it’s quite surprising to see them be this successful, both killing it on a nightly basis with packed houses and long lines. If you happen to live in or around the area, these are not bad options for you given the fact the area is known for its unique cafes and artist-driven shops. However, would I recommend traveling from afar as my friend and I did? Probably not. Would I recommend giving it a try if you’re a serious KFC addict like myself? Only Sai. Click here for my personal favorites.

Quick comparison: Sai Chicken is relatively a newcomer to the more established competitor, Gyeyeolsa Chicken, famed not only for its chicken but also for its brash-talking Halmoni owner. Acting like a two-star army general, she likes to give out orders at will – including to customers – to ensure a smooth operation every night. I really liked the part where we didn’t even have to order our food, she just assumed we’d get one order of the regular fried chicken (which we did) but forgot to bring our order of beer (mandatory chimek, duh), which she not-so-kindly shot back, “Are you sure you ordered beer already?”  I have no qualms about being bossed around by old halmonis, but this Halmoni was a little coarse for my taste. Regardless, I was only focusing on the fried chicken and came to the easy conclusion that Sai is clearly the better of the two options (I didn’t tell her that). Crispy pieces of chicken without being too oily, a sweet n tangy mung bean salad, a cozy and inviting atmosphere, prompt and friendly waitstaff, and some addicting fries are just a few positives that stood out at Sai. In contrast, Gyeyeolsa is a notch down in all areas. The chicken was on the oily side with the excess oil saturating the exterior, leaving the meat a little stringy instead of moist; the seating was too cramped and uncomfortable, giving the impression they wanted to maximize space for efficiency rather than customer comfort; older waitstaff were slower and less attentive; and the potato wedges were a pleasant surprise but didn’t have any crunch like a good potato wedge should. Now that I reflect, I wouldn’t be surprised if the younger peeps at Sai did some benchmarking and improved on all the deficiencies that was apparent at Gyeyeolsal. Hmmmm.

Anyways, it was a nice experience eating at back-to-back fried chicken joints on a Friday night in an area that I had never been to before (near Cheongwadae, the Blue House, I think). And ultimately, I am pretty happy these two places didn’t live up to my expectations because that means my search for the “best” KFC joint will continue on……

“Sharing food with another human being is an intimate act that should not be indulged in lightly.” ~ M.F.K. Fisher

Sai Chicken (사이 치킨)

257-3 Buam-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Phone: 02-395-4242

Hours: Mon~Fri. 1pm~midnight, Sat & Sun 12pm~midnight 

Click here for an interactive map: http://me2.do/xzIitSt1

Food: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Gyeyeolsal Chicken (계열사 치킨)

7 Baekseokdong-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul 

Phone: 02-391-3566

Hours: 12pm ~ midnight, closed every Monday

Click here for an interactive map: http://me2.do/5ctDiLeG

Food: ★★★½ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★½ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★½ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★½ out of 5 stars

Share

The post Battle of the Birds in Buam-dong: Gyeyeolsa Chicken 계열사 치킨 + Sai Chicken 사이 치킨 appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

With a friendly recommendation from someone who really knows traditional Korean food, my friends and I headed to Eungahm-dong (northwest part of Seoul) for some old-school gamjaguk, better known as gamjatang (spicy pork spine soup) to most. Upon arrival, you’ll first notice it’s right in front of a sijang (market) with competing gamjatang restaurants lining the busy street.  Daerim Gamjaguk is the first of the bunch, and it’s always a packed house.

Open for over 35 years, the young-at-heart elderly couple have been satisfying locals and gamjatang-lovers with their very meaty and comforting spicy soup in a no-frills, soju-goes-down-like-water atmosphere (beer goes down equally as well). Supposedly, their time-tested recipe has been unchanged for all those years and they still get their meat sourced from the local butcher. My first observation when the mini-cauldron came out: these are by far the biggest pieces of pork spine bones that I’ve ever eaten – and even better, they’re actually full of tender meat, cartilage, tendons, and other yummy gelatinous pieces hidden between the vertebrae. As for the broth, it wasn’t as spicy as I thought despite its sharp red hue, instead it was nicely mellowed out by various greens like perilla leaves, cabbage leaves, crown daisy, and a hefty dose of crushed sesame seeds. It’s the perfect soup that I’d be completely happy eating alone with plain white rice. Another notable observation was their almighty kimchi and kkakdugi (cubed radish) – fresh, crunchy, sweet and slightly tangy – varieties that you only find at the top seolleungtang (beef bone soup) establishments. If the huge pot of gamjaguk doesn’t satiate your appetite, don’t let the remaining broth go to waste and order some bokkeumbap (fried rice) for an additional 2,000 won per person. You won’t regret it!

Note: Gamjaguk vs. Gamjatang. When asked what the difference was between the two, the owner said the former was an informal, casual way of expressing the dish whereas the latter was more formal, highlighting the dish’s humble beginnings. In addition, gamjaguk/gamjatang is oftentimes mistakenly referred to as spicy potato stew (gamja=potato), but actually the word gamja refers to the pork bone itself, not potatoes. The original gamjatang did not have potatoes.

Food: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Taejo Daerim Gamjaguk 태조대림감자탕

603-74 Eungahm-dong, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul 

Phone: 02-306-6535

Hours: Weekdays 7am ~ 5am, Weekends 24 hours

Click here for an interactive map: http://me2.do/GYkujCpX

Share

The post Taejo Daerim Gamjaguk 태조 대림 감자국 (Eungahm-dong, Seoul) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

I’ve cooked (more like fried) and posted plenty of fried chicken recipes over the years, so I was pretty sure there were very few, if any, options left in terms of creating something new and improved. I was wrong. One look inside my roommate’s fridge presented me with a huge block of butter (rarely use it but made an exception this time) and my still-unused bottle of Tabasco sauce, two ingredients that make any dish better but obviously on different ends of the flavor spectrum. When combined together though – along with basics like soy sauce, sugar, garlic, and cider vinegar – you get a seriously addicting sauce that elevates regular fried chicken into something special (imagine a cross between American-style hot wings and Korean yangnyeom chicken). This recipe is comparable to the Sriracha fried chicken I did back in the early days on Jeju. And if you’re not into cooking at home, just stop by one of these solid KFC places scattered in and around Seoul for your fried chicken fix.

“Cooking is like painting or writing a song. Just as there are only so many notes or colors, there are only so many flavors – it’s how you combine them that sets you part.” ~ Wolfgang Puck

Tabasco Butter Fried Chicken

 

Print

Prep time

20 mins

Cook time

30 mins

Total time

50 mins

 

Author: MYKOREANEATS

Serves: 2

Ingredients

• 1½ lb boneless chicken, cut into strips
• ½ cup Tabasco hot sauce
• 4 tbsp butter
• 4 tbsp soy sauce
• 3, 4 tbsp brown sugar
• 1 tbsp ketchup
• 1 tbsp gochugaru (red pepper flakes; optional)
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• ½ cup cornstarch
• 1 tsp garlic powder (if available)
• 1 tsp salt n pepper
• ¼ cup soju
• 1 cup water
• Canola or vegetable oil for frying (peanut oil is ideal)

Instructions

1. (Optional) Sprinkle and rub a generous amount of salt n pepper over the boneless chicken pieces; set aside for a few minutes. If using bone-in chicken with skin, do the same but let sit longer, 15 minutes or more. This draws out extra moisture from the surface of the chicken making it easier to crisp the outer layer. Pat dry with paper towel before coating.
2. Combine the batter mixture by adding the flour, cornstarch, seasoning, soju, and water together. Mix thoroughly until a slurry batter is formed, slightly lighter than pancake batter. Add more water if necessary. Combine with chicken and set aside in the fridge, 15 minutes.
3. Add sauce ingredients together in a sauce pan. Boil the mixture until it starts to get thick and syrupy, no more than a few minutes. Taste the sauce as you go and feel free to adjust accordingly.
4. In a heavy bottom pot or pan suitable for frying, add enough oil for chicken pieces to be fully submerged. Heat oil on medium-high (or approx. 350 degrees) and test by adding a breadcrumb. If it bubbles, then it's ready. Add the chicken pieces and fry about 7 minutes or until nicely browned. Do not overcrowd as this will lower the oil temperature drastically.
5. Move the chicken to a wire rack or paper-towel lined plate, let cool/dry for a few minutes. Just in case you have a fan nearby, use it to dry up the excess oil and crisp the outer covering. Repeat until all chicken is fried.
6. Transfer the chicken pieces directly to the sauce and coat pieces thoroughly.
7. Plate and serve immediately. Enjoy!

3.3.3077

Share

The post Tabasco Buttered Boneless Fried Chicken appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.

These days, I find myself hanging out in different pockets of Seoul to meet friends and to simultaneously exhaust all the great restaurants in that neighborhood. First, it was Bongcheon-dong and the surrounding hoods when I got back from Jeju, then it was back n forth from Hongdae to Itaewon, and now I find myself near the Sookmyung Women’s University area. And like most universities in Seoul – populated with impressionable and hungry college students – there are tons of worthy establishments that fit the bill for delicious food, spirited drinks, and a lively, late-night atmosphere. These two places that I recently went to are such examples: a franchised makgeolli pub called Cassette Sooljip and a popular yang gochi (aka lamb skewer) Chinese-style restaurant with a name that’s too long to write in English (no, really, it’s that long). Both are a short walk from each other, making it an ideal 1차, 2차 (1st n 2nd round) combination that most Koreans like to adhere to when enjoying a night out with friends or colleagues. Excluded is the most popular (and usually last) round featuring a visit to the local noraebang (karaoke room) because, sad to admit, I can’t sing worth a lick.

Getting to the point, both were solid places offering quality food and drinks in their own unique settings. Cassette Sooljip has a quaint, intimate vibe, perfect for a post-date (or the date itself) drinking session with plenty of regional makgeolli (fermented rice wine) and a wide range of anju at your disposal. In fact, there were so many makgeolli to choose from that my friend and I decided to do a taste test as a reference for future visits. Here are the notes in original form written on my e-notepad: Kyungbuk Chilgok Shindong Makgeolli 경북 칠곡 신동막걸리 – healthy, crisp, natural, clean, noticeable alcohol content; Choongnam Dangjin Hayan Kkot Baekryun Makgeolli 충남 당진 하얀 꽃 백련막걸리 – fruity, crisp, tart, zip; Jipyung Makgeolli 지평 – milky, creamy, light, soft, sweet. All drinks were recommended by the owner and they didn’t disappoint. The two dishes that we ordered – Bindaetteok (Mung Bean Pancake) and Ojingeo Soondae (Squid Stuffed Blood Sausage) – were both delicious and paired perfectly with our makgeolli. One caveat is the wait time for the food. It seemed to take forever to get our food (say 15, 20 minutes), but personally that didn’t bother me since that usually means it’s made to order, not pre-made and simply reheated. Overall, a solid choice for those who like quality makgeolli and anju in a clean and semi-modern atmosphere.

For the 2nd round, my friend and I walked over to a well-known yang gochi restaurant. Although it was my first time eating lamb, lamb skewers had never really appealed to me because (1) I wanted to avoid turning/cooking the skewers myself (2) the meat’s essentially unseasoned and the portions looked child-like (3) it’s just lamb, a type of lean meat that I’m not particularly fond it (4) the top yang gochi restaurants are standardized, meaning they’re practically all the same in terms of presentation and style. How is this place different than others, you ask? It’s not that much different. The lamb skewers (10,000 won per person) come out unseasoned and portions are relatively small, has the same dry seasoning as other places, and annoyingly takes a while to cook despite having an automatic turner that cooks the meat for you. Despite these hiccups, this is one my favorite 2차 spots because of their very impressive cold bottles of Tsingtao – which come out wonderfully and partially frozen – and their lamb that basically cooks down like jerky. I  love jerky. The no-frills atmosphere and mostly Korean descent Chinese staff also gives the restaurant a unique, authentic vibe. The menu is quite extensive here so don’t limit yourselves to the skewers. That is, of course, you like lamb jerky.

Food: ★★★★½ out of 5 stars

Service: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Cassette Sooljip (가제트술집)

249-1 Wonhyo-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (원효로 용산구 서울시 249-1) 

Phone: 02-6084-6784

Hours: Every day 5pm ~ 2am

Official Webpage: http://www.gadgetsuljip.com/

Click here for an interactive map: http://me2.do/GRbmINdH

Food: ★★★★ out of 5 stars (one star alone for super cold Tsingtao)

Service: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Ambiance: ★★★★ out of 5 stars (celebrity signatures plastered all over)

Value: ★★★★ out of 5 stars

Sookmyung University Kyung Sung Yang Gochi Gui (숙대경성양꼬치구이)

48-4 Chungpa-dong 3 ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (서울시 용산구 청파동3가 48-4)

Phone: 02-706-6887

Hours: Every day roughly 4pm ~ 2am

Click here for an interactive map: http://me2.do/GfjbKICs

Share

The post 1차, 2차 (1st, 2nd round) @ Sookmyung Women’s University District (Yongsan-gu, Seoul) appeared first on MYKOREANEATS.